Best lock core nightmare... please advise...

[Shearlock]

Hey guys, perhaps you can help...

About two months ago while leaving a local store, I found a core from a Best lock on the ground. Great condition, seems to be in working order, however the first pin stack appears to be empty. The rest of the pin stacks are populated fine. Problem is, I've never once been able to pick this open. Not to regular or control, i've tried every technique imaginable, and nothing, ever. I'm wondering what you guys can tell me about this particular core. Could it be faulty with the missing front pin stack, or is it likely just a crazy bidding giving me hell. In my experience absent pin stacks are usually in the back, yet in this one the front in empty from what i can see. Here are some photos, thoughts would be great.

-Shearlock

[Lauren]

These locks are hard enough to work even with the key. I wouldn't stress over the fact that you have yet to pick it open. The empty pin chamber seems like locksmith handy work.

[Shearlock]

Indeed. I did some more investigation and the front pin cylinder is in fact empty as I thought. The rest of the pin stacks are under spring pressure, yet I will say the springs appear to be quite strong. The tension is stronger than i'm used to. When working on the back pin I really, really have to lever my pick with considerable force to fight the spring tension in the stacks.

Shearlock

[mdc5150]

Best cores can sometimes have spool pins. That might give you some trouble but they are also sometimes just a bear to pick. It could have collapsed springs (somewhat common with the old copper Best springs.) or it could just be dirty. Don't sweat it if you can't pick it.

As for the first chamber, if you are talking about the chamber closest to the face of the core that is actually the last chamber. The reason that is important is because in some places they were started off with 6 pin cores. That means the keys all only have 6 cuts. If you come along later and need to replace a core or add a lock somewhere but all you have is 7 pin cores, the you leave the last chamber empty.

[Shearlock]

When you say face, are you referring to the side you insert the key into? Silly question but I just want to be clear.

In this core, the empty stack is the stack closest to where you insert the key. I soooooo want to pick this, a compulsion driven by the fact that it refuses vehemently to open. I'm sure you understand!

:::Update:::
The core started moving by itself, then it spoke aloud. It confirmed that it does in fact hate me, and given it's way, it would kill me.

-Shearlock

[mdc5150]

When you say face, are you referring to the side you insert the key into? Silly question but I just want to be clear.

In this core, the empty stack is the stack closest to where you insert the key. I soooooo want to pick this, a compulsion driven by the fact that it refuses vehemently to open. I'm sure you understand!

:::Update:::
The core started moving by itself, then it spoke aloud. It confirmed that it does in fact hate me, and given it's way, it would kill me.

-Shearlock

Yes, the face of the core is where you insert the key.

As for the core speaking aloud it sounds like you have an evil one there, mature but evil. My cores usually just mock me and make me feel bad about my picking abilities.

[Riyame]

Yes, he means the side where you put the key in.

Best keys are stopped by the tip of the key at the back of the lock rather than a shoulder on the face of the lock and all normal blanks are the same length. This means that they are pinned from back to front, reverse of what is true for normal locks. Because of this you can use the exact same key in 5, 6, and 7 pin cores as long as the key has enough cuts.

So as mdc5150 was saying, if your entire master system is made with 6 pin cores and all you have is a 7 pin core to replace one with, the "last" chamber at the front of the lock is left empty since none of the keys will have a cut in this position. If it makes it easier, imagine inserting the key from the back of the lock. In a traditional cylinder if the key is too short then they would leave the last chamber empty so it would work. It is a bit backwards but easy to understand once you get the hang of it.

[Shearlock]

Yes I understand now, thanks for that. I wasn't aware of backwards pinning of these. Learned something new.

As for this lock, I think you are right. It's evil.

[farmall]

If nothing else. Gut it for the learning experience.

[jeffmoss26]

I worked on a core for someone this past week that was 6 pin but only pinned in 5 chambers. People do weird stuff!

[GWiens2001]

OK, try this on for size. Get a shim from a security tag, and shim the control shear line from the back of the lock.





Shim it until the control lug turns. Turn it back, and pull it out one pin, so you now have a 1 pin Best practice core. When you can pick that well, then pull the shim back so you have a two pin practice lock. It will only turn at the control shear line, so simplifies the process.

Gordon

[Papa Gleb]

Sweet thread. how did I miss this lol. Great advise Gordon.

[selim]

GW - - that's cool advise =

[farmall]

Just did the security strip shim trick. Worked perfect. Know I have to look for security strips along with wiper blade inserts and street sweeper bristles

[grit1]

Was the local store by any chance Target?

As someone who looks at locks everywhere, especially BEST locks your pictures jumped out at me for potentially being of a Target core. The markings, finish and keyway are what have me thinking.

Target uses locks like these: http://www.bestaccess.com/products/miscellaneous.asp (Scroll down to the section titled "4S SERIES SLIDING DOOR CYLINDER") to secure display cases containing cosmetics and electronics. The BEST spec sheet specifies the use of a 6C core, which yours is not, but perhaps that's why it was on the ground and not in the display case?

Regardless, a trick I have used for picking a naked core to control is to get a small needle-nose pliers, grab onto the back of the core with one tip on the control lug, the other on the opposite end of the core and squeeze to apply tension. Use a pick, ejector pin, paperclip or whatever is around to push on each pin through the ejection pin hole. In my experience the pins will snap right to control and in 5, 6 or 7 clicks you'll be at control.