Need a favour re Petersen Prybars

[escher7]

I have a new idea for a tension tool and need someone to post the dimensions of the Petersen prybars. Thickness not a problem as it is on the site, but overall dimensions and especially the distance at the end from tip to the first notch - ie the length and width of the serrated part.
Thanks.

[MrAnybody]

I have a new idea for a tension tool and need someone to post the dimensions of the Petersen prybars. Thickness not a problem as it is on the site, but overall dimensions and especially the distance at the end from tip to the first notch - ie the length and width of the serrated part.
Thanks.

Would this help?



A) 2.5mm
B) 2.5mm
C) 8.5mm
D) 4.5mm

And note the scale on the paper is 5mm squares.

[mister sour]

I love the metric system. I wish America would adopt it.

[GWiens2001]

It would make things much easier.

Come on, converting fractions to decimals or vice versa to see if the metal stock you are looking at in the hardware store is the diameter you need. Can I do it? Of course. But will the 7/64" stock fit when the hole is .105" after a long day at work is too much hassle when your brain is already fried.

Gordon

[MrAnybody]

Opppps! Yep, I didn't even think about it. Just automatically do metric.

OK, here's this (according to my phone):

A) 0.098425 inches
B) 0.098425 inches
C) 0.334646 inches
D) 0.177165 inches



Or would you guys prefer it in lengths of a cat or 1 year old beetles strung upon a string? (if the latter, please specify the beetles of your choice)

[mister sour]

Lmao. Look how stupid the conversions look.

[Josephus]

All measurement systems are inherently arbitrary, but yeah, fractions are terrible.

Here are the same measurements using a caliper, averaged out over three prybars that I have.

A: 0.104 in, 2.65 mm
B: 0.110 in, 2.80 mm
C: 0.338 in, 8.55 mm - don't trust this one that edge isn't flat nor consistent from one to another
D: 0.156 in, 3.97 mm

Oh, and here are the fractions for luls

A: 13/125'
B: 11/100'
C: 169/500'
D: 39/250'

Looks like metric was used to make the prybars.

I have made my own flat tensioners. I know what issue you are wondering about. After doing a survey on all the brands I had at the time, the maximum distance available for the tool to the first pin was uniformly about 1/8 in or a little over 3 mm on door locks. The maximum height was the same on most brands but I recall one needing a little less. Odd how similar they all were. On padlocks I never really decided on a consensus. It just varied too much. Simply put, for padlocks it is noticeably less. Just dug one of the tools out, seems I settled on 2.75 mm, 0.108 in for the height (A) and 2.65 mm, 0.104 in for depth ( B ). Works okay. Not really worth the time to do again as it is nothing more than a bad, but significantly lighter (314ss I think) prybar copy. Hopefully your project will be more creative than mine lol.

[GWiens2001]

Or would you guys prefer it in lengths of a cat or 1 year old beetles strung upon a string? (if the latter, please specify the beetles of your choice)

Cat lengths might be imprecise. Can we standardize the beetle type to either the Carolina Metallic Tiger Beetle (tetracha carolina) or the rainbow leaf beetle (chrysolina cerealis), as they have such cool color schemes.

However, if you could please also give conversions related to a European Swallow's tail feathers, it would be quite helpful.

Gordon

[rerun12]

im curious to learn what you plan on making escher..i've been wanting to make a universal tension wrench that'll fit all(or most) locks similar to the prybar but with more than two "ends"

[escher7]

Thanks guys. I am Canadian and used to working in both systems so no problem. No big innovation planned, but by making a tension tool with a 90 degree twist instead of the flat Petersen I hope to get more spring and thus feedback while retaining the advantages of the Petersen by staying away from the first pin and getting the grip of the serrations.

[rai]

Ive got a Bosch saber saw blade, (used to be called a saber saw, forgot what the call it now) that im grinding down into a prybar, but the grindstone at the hack factory is not dressed and Im gonna have to dig out the fauxdremel tool to get into the small places, the steel is really hard. Don't know how I would make the serrations, the metal is way to hard to bite with a dykes.
Maybe I should buy the wrench,

[Deadlock]

Sawzall?


Okay, Sawzall's a brand name, but I have seen it used generically. They're reciprocating saws.


As for the serrations, how about a diamond file?

[escher7]

Here is my first version of the tension tool I had in mind. It worked out quite well and the centre tension enabled me to beat a Yale 6 pin that has been giving me grief for two weeks. The bottom tension would not give me any obvious pin feedback in either direction. With the new centre tension tool I got it in 2 minutes.
My jewellers' saw with a .009" hacksaw blade made it easy to cut the shape and a very thin edge file (that flat piece of steel in the pictures) made the serrations the way I wanted.

[Deadlock]

I can imagine picking that up and using it straight away. I'll have to make one of those. Nice work.

[escher7]

I can imagine picking that up and using it straight away. I'll have to make one of those. Nice work.

It has more spring than the standard prybar but gives perfect centre grip. I decided I needed a centre tension tool after watching Kokomo's vids on security pins, as the counter rotation is key to spools etc.