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Registered mail padlock

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macgng

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Contributor / I Fought Tooth and Nail to Acquire BO...
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Post Thu Mar 31, 2016 7:27 pm

Re: Registered mail padlock

check this out:

Image
Nibbler: The poop-eradication is but one aspect of your importance.
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GregWhitney

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Post Thu Mar 31, 2016 8:54 pm

Re: Registered mail padlock

macgng wrote:these padlocks were NOT meant to be serviced. when the counter hit 9999 ,they were scrapped (sent back to the mail equipments shop) and replaced


There are many dissenting opinions on whether the USPS repaired these locks including this post from our own forum: https://www.keypicking.com/viewtopic.ph ... 6&start=15. From everything I have read or heard from ex-postal employees is that these locks were both repaired and manufactured by the USPS Mail Equipment Shops.

In the interest of setting the record straight and educating the rest of us would you please share your information that contradicts this? Please refer to the following as exampled of the misunderstanding:
http://www.antique-locks.com/showthread ... toms-Locks
http://www.antique-locks.com/member.php/1150-fscheer

Biography:
Curator of the Railway Mail Service Library and research postal locks used on Railway Post Offices.
Location:
117 East Main Street, Boyce, VA 22620-9639
Interests:
Postal locks, keys, and literature worldwide.
Occupation:
Curator

https://about.usps.com/postal-bulletin/ ... fo_008.htm

While the mail equipment shops have been closed it seems to be commonly believed that repairs, as well as manufacture, occurred within their walls.
Last edited by GregWhitney on Fri Apr 01, 2016 1:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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femurat

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Post Fri Apr 01, 2016 12:58 am

Re: Registered mail padlock

Greg, thanks for the info. My lock works well, so I'll look for this thread just in case I need to repair it.

macgng, that's an impressive cutaway.

Cheers :)
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tpark

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Post Fri Apr 01, 2016 11:06 pm

Re: Registered mail padlock

GregWhitney wrote:In reverse order, the counters probably do look pretty new. It is my understanding that the earlier counters deteriorated over time and were replaced with the newer, brighter ones "plastic" ones.

I will post pictures of disassembly soon but have a full plate at the moment. At a high level the locks can be disassembled as follows. Note that older lock have three screws (one on each side plus on on the bottom) while later locks will only have the screw on the bottom (and it is hard to spot).
    Drill screws with 7/32 drill bit
    Drill down about an 1/8th inch
    Use #1 square easy out to remove screw
    After the screws are removed, lay lock on bench with dial down
    Start to wiggle case off
    Springs will be on top and need to be retained
    last tumbler has cardboard "cable staple" to prevent reversing of key rotation (and fudging the counter)
    Slide case off
    Bottom of lock has washer that engages counter.Remove with turnstile and counter wheel
    Pull out tab with pliers
    Remove each washer/turnstile/counter

Assemble in reverse order
    Replace screws with 10-32 brass flat-head screw
    Mill off head when done

Greg


Good instructions - one of my locks had a busted digit counter, so it was a good excuse to disassemble the lock. I drilled two 1/16 inch holes in the screw head, and used a security driver to remove the three screws.
On my specimen, the pin lengths were 375, 405, and 333 (from the bow).
The last wheel has a blocker to prevent it rotating past 9999.
I glued the broken counter wheel.
the drivers have two reduced diameter areas, much like spool drivers, but I never really noticed it when picking the lock.
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GregWhitney

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Post Sat Apr 02, 2016 12:32 pm

Re: Registered mail padlock

Glad you were able to fix your lock, tpark! That was a real sweet idea to drill the two holes and use the security driver as well. Thanks for sharing your experience.

Greg
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tpark

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Post Sat Apr 02, 2016 1:44 pm

Re: Registered mail padlock

postal_screws_drilled.jpg

Here's after I drilled the screws for the security driver.
postal_screws_removed.jpg

Afterwards, the screws came out easily.
postal_six_cracked.jpg

postal_six_detail.jpg

One of the counters was damaged so I epoxied it.
postal_six_glued.jpg

Of course, my trusty cat needed to see what was going on and came to help me.
postal_cat_assistant.jpg

Everything is reassembled now.
postal_reassembly.jpg
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GregWhitney

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Post Sat Apr 02, 2016 1:50 pm

Re: Registered mail padlock

Thanks for posting the pics tpark! I seem to have the best of intentions of doing so but don't make it happen. Did you re-use the screws or use new ones and mill off the heads? I would be interested to know your steps if you did choose to replace the screws.

Greg
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femurat

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Post Sat Apr 02, 2016 2:40 pm

Re: Registered mail padlock

Thanks for the pictures tpark. The idea of drilling two small holes is very clever. I also have some "security" screwdrivers that would fit those two holes perfectly. I'll try to remember this trick when i have a stripped screw head.

Cheers :)
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GWiens2001

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Post Sat Apr 02, 2016 9:19 pm

Re: Registered mail padlock

That is great, tpark. Really, really appreciate the pics. Just wait till Oldfast finds out there are gut shots. :D

Gordon
Just when you think you've learned it all, that is when you find you haven't learned anything yet.
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tpark

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Post Sun Apr 03, 2016 9:39 am

Re: Registered mail padlock

GregWhitney wrote:Thanks for posting the pics tpark! I seem to have the best of intentions of doing so but don't make it happen. Did you re-use the screws or use new ones and mill off the heads? I would be interested to know your steps if you did choose to replace the screws.

Greg

I reused the screws for now, I'll go get the proper fasteners when I get the chance though. I'll get some slot brass machine screws, tighten them down then use a dremel tool to grind it down almost flat, then use the small polishing tool to make it as smooth as possible. I might just get some regular screws to put in there since I have several perfectly functional postal locks, and I might want to get in there again and make more measurements or take photos.

My key cut from measurements bound about 3/4 of the way around, I found that I had to file the first cut a bit to make it rotate smoothly. I note that it seems a bit "low" but it works fine without hanging up.

I'm glad that others have found the pictures useful.
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