A little book I wrote

[kerti]

Correct, Kerti.

When you are turning the dial to the left (counter-clockwise), the nose of the lever will contact the right side of the drop zone in the drive cam. So turn the dial left to get the right contact point. Turn the dial right to get the left contact point.

Gordon

Thank you!

[kerti]

I need advice. This place in book has many misunderstanding moments


I think it would be like that:
Low test
L57.5 R67.5 R34.5 LCP: 96.5 RCP: 6 Contact area: 9 ½
R67.5 L57.5 R34.5 LCP: 96.5 RCP: 6 ¼ Contact area: 9 ¾
Hi test
L77.5 R67.5 R34.5 LCP: 96 ¾ RCP: 6 ¼ Contact area: 9 ¾
R67.5 L77.5 R34.5 LCP: 96 ½ RCP: 6 ½ Contact area: 10 ¼

[LockManipulator]

Yep, you're right about that. That's a mistake I made

[Deadlock]

Ha ha ha! kerti, you rock.

Daggers, no disrepect, I know jack about this sorta thing. It's just, where would you go to find an editor for a book like yours? Have to go a long way... to the Ukraine obviously!

All the safes I've ever seen, (count 'em on one hand), have been key locked. If I ever got a dial lock safe to play with, I'd be using your book to try and open it. If I was following the book, and there was some mistake in it, I'd be like, ''but the book says...'' ... you know.

Anyway, all good stuff you wouldn't get anywhere else.

[kerti]

Yep, you're right about that.

Thank you a lot! You have written a good book.
And we will make a perfect book together with other readers!

PS: I know that writing the good technical tutorial is a very hard mental work. So, you do not be worry about mistakes. Thank you for your time!

[LockManipulator]

So sorry for the mistakes! I went through the same confusion with some conflicting advice from two different sources when I was starting out. I've been thinking about changing it but in all honesty, I've been too lazy. I've really just been a bum the last several months and haven't done anything but sleep and rockclimb occasionally (one of my other hobbies). With that being said, don't take everything I, my book, or any other source of information, as being 100% correct. Not only can there be typos, but information changes over time and certain information can either be disproved or updated to something better. If you ever feel like something is not right or could be done a better way, just ask! Because you might turn out to be right

The pdf in this thread is only the 25 page one I think, not the 50 page one on amazon. Here's the pdf of the one on amazon, I only charge for the physical copy so feel free to share this: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B89g6z ... sp=sharing Unfortunately, it has the same mistake in it but has some extra useful information. Again, if you feel like something is incorrect, just ask someone. I haven't look at it in a looong time. I had to sell my entire lock collection a while ago and haven't had any locks, key operated or combination, for far too long..... Although, funnily enough, I just received an audio amplifier so I have a pretty nice amp but no lock to use it with!

[Deadlock]

Downloaded. Thanks again Daggers.

[Locks+Picks_Happy]

Downloaded! I can't believe it took me this long to see this. It truly looks amazing.

Thank you some much. I can't wait to read it (now I just have to make the time...).

[Ganbat75]

Thanks, Daggers.

I just finished reading second version of book. And i have a question. How to start practicing? I mean even cheap safes are hundreds of dollar, and isn't safes like thousand kg? Where can i find cutaway safe locks. Also does this work other combo locks work same? How do i know which group lock is?

[LockManipulator]

You can get locks on ebay and mount them to pieces of wood to practice. $35-50 for an s&g 6730. As for knowing which group a lock is, look at how it works. Does it have anything designed to make manipulation harder? Then it's probably a group 2M or 1. You can also look it up and see what group it's in. Not all combination locks work the same. My book is only for group 2 safe locks, not for things like combination master locks for lockers.

[froglock]

Wow, thanks alot for that. I could use this if I get stuck with something.

Much appreciated

[aidenatt]

Just skimmed through this and I've gotta say, it looks VERY informative! Good job!

Now I've just gotta get my hands on some dials and give it a go myself.

[LockButcher]

Man thank you so much! I have some locks I want to manipulate and I had no idea where to start! So excited to be cool and impress girls as well as learn the art of manipulating

[Jaakko Fagerlund]

Some corrections to the PDF:

Page 2: Group 2 locks have no manipulation protection rating, Group 2M has 2 hours test against expert manipulation.

Page 26/27: Dial those tests in reverse order, makes it faster as you don't have to redial most of the wheels to position them.

Didn't read it through with a thought, but those just popped up to my eyes from quickly skimming through

Edited to add: Last page with the readymade printouts: Change the testing order of the wheels as per the above to avoid unnecessary dialing.

[Oldfast]

.....So excited to be cool and impress girls as well as learn the art of manipulating

Wait a minute. I've been spinning for a little bit now.
So where's all these girls you speak of?!

Nearly EVERYONE is intrigued and excited by safecracking...... for about 10 minutes. lol
Whether someone's watching me spin, or listening to me answer a question they posed...
it usually take roughly 3-8 minutes before I literally see their eyes glaze over. lol

1) They're very bored. 2) Very confused. Or 3) They understand but really don't give a shit. lol
Of course, if someone's interest is genuine and persistent, I'm all too happy to oblige. But for
the most part I've learned to keep to myself or at least keep my answers fairly generalized.