need help with Mosler lock identification

[jtwjr]

Hello all, Hoping to get some help on identifying the lock in this safe. This was a safe within a safe so it has no model number on it. The serial number would indicate that it is from 1951. It is hard to tell if it is a 4 wheel or 3 wheel lock. At first I thought it was a 4 wheel lock but after some amplification and numerous trys I am not so sure and think it could be a three wheel lock. That fourth wheel is really a soft contact if it is indeed a fourth wheel. This lock only has one contact point at 1 when turning the lock counter clockwise. What would really help me at this point is what kind of lock is in it. Would it be a Yale OC-5 or a mosler lock. Did they come in 3 or 4 wheels?

I have been graphing it and the weird part is sometimes it will give me good points and other times it will not show anything at all. I am wondering if the temperature has anything to do with that. I did two graphs this morning and they were mostly flat. But other times I get distinct points as one would expect.

I am new to safe manipulation but not lock picking and the first thing I really need to know is what lock I am dealing with. I have been unable to find any good model information on Mosler safes which I am thinking is due to their security of not providing information.

Anyway any help from anyone that knows this safe would be helpful. It looks bigger in the pics than it actually is. It is 14"W 13 3/4"H by 16 1/4" L Hopefully the pictures will post

[MartinHewitt]

This is an old style lug door safe. Mosler safes of that time did not have Yale locks. Mosler had at this time a wide variety of locks with three and four wheels and different mechanisms with a final turn to the right and to the left. I can't really say what's inside and any speculation on the lock model will probably mislead you. So I would assume it is a 4-wheeler or at least check sometimes if wheel 4 is showing something. If you can feel the CP at 1 counter clockwise, then the fence will for sure drop counter clockwise if you have the correct combo and you will feel that. I have never heard, that humidity or temperature will influence the CPs. If you get a flat line, than it is usually that a wheel not moved is the high point and all others are shadowed. Some locks provide also or sometimes only information by the strength of the bump at the CP. I include this in my graph by drawing the line thicker and thinner.

[bitbuster]

Possibly Mosler B6

[jtwjr]

Finally got it open!! What an awesome feeling to crack this safe! Took me long enough but it was worth it! Can someone identify the lock now? Its dirty and needs a good cleaning. Hopefully the photos will work this time.

[MartinHewitt]

Great that you got that smol safe open without doing it any harm. I am sure it is very grateful.

Your amazon links are forwarded to my countries amazon domain and all I see is doxology of the amazon photo storage service.

[jtwjr]

Yeah I hate posting photos, Trying to use imgur but of course it won't work. I can't get it to login or send me my forgotten password. Hopefully that fixed it try the links again.

[MartinHewitt]

They did! But there are now only three photos. Btw. can upload photos also here to keypicking.com.

I don't know the lock model. It looks similar to the MR99, but that one is manipulation resistant.

Already found a nice place for it?

[jtwjr]

I needed an engine hoist just to get it where it is. Its small but about 450lbs. I don't know how I am going to get it in the house. It is definitely not something a burglar is going to pick up and run away with. I cleaned up the lock and am in the need of information about lubrication. I have heard never lube and then of course it needs lube. Also someone on another forum with the same Mosler door said theirs was a KB-104 mosler lock. Very limited info on that.

[MartinHewitt]

Burglars now have cars. I have seen a police report here in Germany where a nearly 1800 lbs safe was stolen. 450 is really not much. A sack barrow, a trash bin or perhaps two strong guys should be enough to change ownership.

It should be enough for the lock to lube very lightly where the bolt moves and touches the case, and the tube where the wheels sit on. Solidified lube inside a lock is no fun. Maybe also a bit the dial bearing depending on its construction. And of course where the safe's bolts rub in the door. I would also oil the shiny steel surfaces very slightly just to prevent rust. With grease and lube less is more. If there is a strong urge to lube there is usually a problem which should be solved.