Combination Dial File Cabinet

[ddq]

I'm planning to look at both safes this weekend. Does one look better than the other? Based on the description I think I could get the mosler for cheaper. It looks like a solid steel plate safe, probably a TL-15?

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/it ... 700095526/

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/it ... 966454634/

[L4R3L2]

I don't do facebook. I don't see a way to magnify the pictures to get much more useful from them.

Of the two, I would definitely choose the Mosler. Good brand name, and looks like heavy steel plate construction. The door should be 2" thick, and the lock is most likely Mosler's manipulation resistant MR302. Be sure it is working properly! Basically, your only option to open with a defective lock is drilling. On that note, always check any safe you buy to be sure it has not been drilled. From pictures of a similar or identical model in my resources, I don't believe this to be fire resistant. Ask to see a closeup of the labels. I also doubt it only weighs 1k#. As an irrelevant side note, this safe is 1980s era.

As far as the Fortis safe (unfamiliar with the name), if you end up getting it I suggest you ditch the electronic lock in favor of a good quality mechanical lock, unless you have circumstances that make an electronic lock worth the risk. At the very least, replace that S&G lock with an Amsec if you feel you need electronic. I don't like how this safe looks like you have direct access inside at the top and bottom edges of the door. Maybe with larger pictures I'd see it differently.

BTW, one is a right hand door, and the other is left hand, if that makes a difference in your application.

[ddq]

I don't do facebook. I don't see a way to magnify the pictures to get much more useful from them.

Of the two, I would definitely choose the Mosler. Good brand name, and looks like heavy steel plate construction. The door should be 2" thick, and the lock is most likely Mosler's manipulation resistant MR302. Be sure it is working properly! Basically, your only option to open with a defective lock is drilling. On that note, always check any safe you buy to be sure it has not been drilled. From pictures of a similar or identical model in my resources, I don't believe this to be fire resistant. Ask to see a closeup of the labels. I also doubt it only weighs 1k#. As an irrelevant side note, this safe is 1980s era.

As far as the Fortis safe (unfamiliar with the name), if you end up getting it I suggest you ditch the electronic lock in favor of a good quality mechanical lock, unless you have circumstances that make an electronic lock worth the risk. At the very least, replace that S&G lock with an Amsec if you feel you need electronic. I don't like how this safe looks like you have direct access inside at the top and bottom edges of the door. Maybe with larger pictures I'd see it differently.

BTW, one is a right hand door, and the other is left hand, if that makes a difference in your application.

Thank you for the reply. I have been in communication with both sellers and the Fortis was going to be CLOSE to fitting in my door but the seller did not factor in the handle and dial into the dimensions and that makes it too wide.

I asked the Mosler seller if the black sticker was a TL-15 rating and they said "no, if I'm looking at the right thing it says TL-30". The lowest they said they could go is $800 and I plan to go check it out in the morning. I will ensure the lock is working and hopefully my plan to get it in my enclosed trailer works. I agree that it looks closer to 2000 lbs. The width and depth is 25.5" and 27.5, substantially more compact than the other plate steel safes I have seen advertised.

[L4R3L2]

That's a steal for a TL-30 safe. You would do very well to get it, assuming you don't mind it's not fire resistant (check on that), are able to move it, and it fits. I envy you guys back east. Out here on the leading coast, antique safes are few and far between and everyone thinks they're worth their weight in gold, and old, used TL rated safes are likewise priced out of orbit and/or six hours away.

[ddq]

I finally got the safe home. I spent $800 on it. It is so much heavier than I anticipated. I do have access to a backhoe with forks on the front loader but once it is on my porch I have no idea how to get it through the door. I expect I will need to call professional movers. I have the combination and it does work. I don't love the feel of the dial because it seems to be kind of 'sloppy', but I have so little experience with combination dials that it may be normal. Here are a few more pictures.

[ddq]

I wish I knew a more accurate weight. I have called several moving companies who do not want to try to move anything over 2000 lbs. I feel like this safe is over that.

[ddq]

With the weight of A36 plate steel, after calculating the square feet of the body and door I get a total estimated weight of about 2400 lbs. The door is 636 lbs without the hinges, lock or bolts.

[L4R3L2]

Congratulations on getting the Mosler!

The dial should feel like it hits a hump, and clicks over it at some point each revolution. That is the manipulation resistance feature.

It's always a potentially dangerous prospect, but with the right equipment the door could be removed and moved separately. That would reduce the weight of the safe body significantly.

[ddq]

Thanks. I think I have a plan for getting the safe inside but I have gotten some concern from carpenters about the floor supporting so much weight. If the safe goes in the house I am going to reinforve the floor and add support posts under the path the safe will travel. I am working out the details on that project today

[MartinHewitt]

Don't walk under the safe to look if the floor is holding!

[ddq]

Don't walk under the safe to look if the floor is holding!

It would be quite ironic to be killed by something called safe.

I think I am going to double up the 2x8 joists then block them together. That alone will double the strength of the floor. Then I am going to use 4x6 posts to support the joists.

[ddq]

It is out of the traiker and sitting on the porch. That was a stressful operation by myself.

[ddq]

Today I sistered (doubled) the joists under the path the safe will travel and rest. Tonight or tomorrow I will be using the 4x6 beams to make two supports which will split the 15ft joist span into thirds. Saturday morning I plan to construct the boardwalk inside the house which the safe will be moved on. My friends are coming over Saturday afternoon to assist in moving the safe

[MartinHewitt]

I got today my safe. Transport was astonishingly easy. They put phenolic ply on the normal office raised floor and pulled the safe with a trolley around the office. Last meter without ply. No probs at all. Maybe this method would also be enough for you.

[ddq]

Hearing that gives me confidence.

How did they get it on and off the trolly? Did you take any pictures?