Friction-Fence Locks

[MartinHewitt]

Played with the Sun 700 and had after about 15 minutes already the gates for W2 and W3 by feeling the turning resistance of the RCP. AWR and feeling for highest restance, then from there W3 around left.

[MartinHewitt]

This is now my officially last posting here for this year! Have a Happy New Year!

But now to the posting's content...

The right contact point is now always nicely revealing a gate, but the feeling of it makes the dialing quite fast. Because of the estimation of of the turning difficulty notes are quite enough and a graph not really possible.

[MartinHewitt]

Tested what happens on the Sun 700 when the gate of W3 is near the gate of the drive cam. As expected actually nothing, but it might get awkward to dial like all near gate numbers. Of course as it is not a friction fence lock it doesn't need a start to turn the fence to the gates.

[MartinHewitt]

Got yesterday a Satoh Sun Magnetic. It is not a friction fence locks, but as all my friction fence locks are still in the US, it is a substitute drug. The Magnetic is a direct entry fence lock in magic module format. The fence is pushed in by magnet, a bit by gravity (in VU) and I guess a lot by a spring inside the fence. The patent would be helpful, but I can't find it. The fence rides on the wheels, so there is no CP. Feeling the gates is also very difficult.

[Oldfast]

The Sun Magnetic seems like an interesting lock that I don't know much about beyond some vague pictures I've seen. Would be great if you'd start a thread on this one for us all! I'd love to hear more about your experience with it as well as some photos if/when you have the time. I'm very curious about this one.

[MartinHewitt]

Oldfast, your wish is my command.

[Oldfast]

Oldfast, your wish is my command.

Me likes Let's head over HERE for a discussion on the Sun Magnetic.

[MartinHewitt]

Got today my two friction fence locks! (And others) One is a Yale OC-5. The other is a Mosler. From what I found in the books it is a Mosler 5 and it is not a Mosler 5. So I have no idea and will just call it Mosler. It is a big lock with cast brass case which is gilded. The curb is fixed with two screws. I will make some photos for you on the weekend. So I am sure you will read in the future a bit more about friction fence locks from me, but at the moment I have a different project on which I work.

[Oldfast]

Looking forward to seeing more of this Mosler! Thanks Martin

[MartinHewitt]

You are also looking forward to see photos of my 14a. You just do not know it yet.

All of the locks I got do work. The friction is really where it should be. So the Yale and Mosler open easily. But with the Mosler I noticed, that with these mesh change wheels the center piece can't be pushed completely into the outer ring, at least not with my thumbs. Nothing falls out, but some wheels seem to touch each other because of this. Is this a known Mosler problem? Can this be fixed? And another problem I have is how to mount these locks?

[Oldfast]

.....But with the Mosler I noticed, that with these mesh change wheels the center piece can't be pushed completely into the outer ring, at least not with my thumbs. Nothing falls out, but some wheels seem to touch each other because of this. Is this a known Mosler problem? Can this be fixed?.....

I've encountered mesh-change wheels that were such a tight fit, some additional force was needed to pop out the inner hub. Likewise to get them back together. I can't really say just how common this is, as I've not worked with tons of them at this point. Just saying that I've experienced it a couple times.

You might consider lightly tapping the inner hub, working your way evenly around the edge. See if it starts sinking deeper. If it does, continue slowly working your way around until it's fully seated. I have a small hammer... smaller than a ball pein. It has a variety of attachments for heads, one of which is a sort of soft delrin/plastic. But really, anything that would give you precision and won't ding the brass would be appropriate.

Hopefully this isn't bad advise... but it's my only thought. Maybe we should wait for some photos.

.....And another problem I have is how to mount these locks?

What sort of issues are you thinking you'll run into? Again, maybe we should save you some typing time, lol, and we'll wait for some pictures.

[MartinHewitt]

You might consider lightly tapping the inner hub, working your way evenly around the edge. See if it starts sinking deeper. If it does, continue slowly working your way around until it's fully seated. I have a small hammer... smaller than a ball pein. It has a variety of attachments for heads, one of which is a sort of soft delrin/plastic. But really, anything that would give you precision and won't ding the brass would be appropriate.

I will try that. Thanks!

.....And another problem I have is how to mount these locks?

What sort of issues are you thinking you'll run into? Again, maybe we should save you some typing time, lol, and we'll wait for some pictures.

Well, with a 6730 I take a wooden board, drill a big hole, perhaps six small ones, take six screws, cut the spindle and basically the lock is mounted. With the Mosler there is one screw, six protrusions and one long tube. The main thing relevant for holding that lock are IMHO the six protrusions. The screw is just there that it doesn't fall of. So it will probably take some milling to make cavities for these protrusions.

[MartinHewitt]

That is my Mosler 5-H? 6-H? Who knows?

[MartinHewitt]

And its internals.

[MartinHewitt]

Can I remove the pipe and its base plate after removing the drive and spindle?