awol70 wrote:NOOOOOOOOOOOOO!! no graphite!
a microscopic drop of WD-40 will do in a pinch,
but avoid graphite at all costs..it makes sludge in the lock over time,
especially if someone sprays wd=40 in the lock after,or if the lock is being used in wet conditions.
Graphite repells water. Rub some into your hand and pour some water over it.
Graphite 'sludge' won't damage a lock, however it may impair movement of pins if too much is used.
Get some Electrical Contact Cleaner. This is a solvent that won't damage any internal parts, but will clean the lock of any dirt\graphite\silicone and so on.
I mean really flush that sucker out. Spray it, run a key or pick through, then spray again until the liquid comes out clear.
THEN you can add some graphite. Not much, just one puff or so. if your key binds up or gets clogged going into the keyway, you're used WAY too much. if this happens, Re-flush and start again.
You only want to coat the pins and get everything moving.
The key is to work the lock as much as you can after getting the graphite in there. Turn the lock upside down, tap it, run a blank in and out, turn the plug both ways 10 times, anything you can to get the stuff moving around and coating everything.
90% of 'unpickable' locks can be opened by properly lubing them.
I've had old Americans, Masterlocks, Lockwoods, ABUS, XPT and so on with security pins that simple would not open. Careful lubing and working made them jump at the chance to open.
I personally never use WD40 or any silicone based products on the pin\plug part of any lock. While it may serve the purpose for the moment, after a few months of usage the lock will attract any dirt\lint\muck from the keys and picks going into it, and will only cause issues. Drylube FTW.
Also a footnote: Never lube a lock at all if you're planning on impressioning.
The opposite is the key for impressioning, you want as much binding as possible.