strike and latch mortises with rounded corners

[jones]

I agree that out-swinging doors don't need the reinforcement plates.

And maybe this is just my cynicism, but Schlage's B60 is the cheapest grade 1 deadbolt by a wide margin, and I suspect they did the absolute bare minimum to achieve that rating. If they could just toss in a couple of regular 3" deck screws and stay at G1, wouldn't they do that?

What do you suppose makes a strike box superior to a strike plate?

The strike box also has a 3" screw in the bottom of the strike hole, in the end of the box. It might last for one more kick, is all

[Rlhelms57]

I use rounded templates, and a trim router it looks professional, and always fits perfect. Or for just one strike use a very sharp exacts knife and trace the strike in the corners, and use the chisel for the straights.

[GringoLocksmith]

How do you affix the template to the door or jamb? Do you have to leave little nail holes?

[Rlhelms57]

Yes it leaves little holes, but to me that is far better than leaving rough edges around the strike or latch. If the door frame is white some premium white caulk will make them "hide". Same with dark wood finish.

Just the other day i installed two dead bolts for a lady near me, she had a townhouse, and the cheap builders used MDF door jambs and trim. I figured just two deadbolts i would just chisel them puppies. Not a good idea, as using a chisel caused the edge near the front of the jamb to split out. I had to mix an epoxy wood resin product and rebuild the wood, sand and re finish to fix that. Next time i will break out the router and not risk that little fiasco.

I am trying to design and build a template system that will allow it to clamp on the door or the jamb and route these items out. It must be made with the ability to take into consideration the door stop and side trim, and still close down enough to route the door face.

It's just my opinion, but it is usually better to route with round edges and use a corner chisel to make it square if needed.

[GringoLocksmith]

I've been thinking about making a template something like this:



The gray parts are cut out. Top and bottom holes are for nails, and they align with the holes in the strikeplate. Center hole is for aligning the template with your centering mark. Once it's routed, you'd just have to chisel out the strip in the middle.

[Rlhelms57]

that is a pretty cool idea. what i want to make is a clamping bracket similar to the Major manufacturing products that sits on the face of the jam and has a step up in the middle to accommodate the door stop then it wraps around the trim on the two sides of the door and clamps to the wall. I was thinking that it could be made of simple ash or oak, and could use a very simple template system like the Milescraft template system, but instead of driving a nail in the jamb or door you could attach it to the clamping jig with machine screws and threaded inserts.

This way if you buggered up the template they are real cheap to replace.

[rai]

A router with a blade that makes a cut with the same radius as the corner can be trapped in a simple rectangular jig and driven around the
inside of a plain wooden or metal rectangle will do it well
Probably those strike plates are made for "door framing shops" which sell pre hung doors in frames to be applied in new housing. Such shops would always use routers for fitting plates and its for the requrirements that the rounded plates were originally produced