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That must be some crazy hardplate they have where You are at, I have learned to do the the exact opposite with hardplate in Arizona

We do have some good ATMS here is the inside of one we had to open

well the rig seems to work OK with traditional plates


heres the mark 1 version of my magnetic lock, the heart is a 1600lb 12/24VDC door lock magnet 1/4" steel plates drilled for the mounting points of the magnet then welded to a 1/2-13 coupler.




appears like it works, time to field test



also 5 minute spindle "gripper" I'm going to add a flat emergency dial to the collar would would make a handy safe tool.

magnetic drilling rig in action on a 1930's safe

You can add a quick-disconnect to your drill if you chuck up the right 6-point socket, one that fits onto the end of your drill rig. Looks really nice, Man, Congratulations

Very cool! I love seeing tools that people have made themselves.

Nicely done!

Thank you all for the comments

On the subject of sharpening carbide, do the lions share with the green stone (silicone-carbide) but finish dressing the drill on a diamond wheel (they are fairly cheap these days) it makes a big difference to the cutting edge on the drill.

is there good money in safes? what can you charge to open a save and cost of equipment?

This is what we do for sharpening masonry bits for drilling Stellite alloys.
Of course we vary the geometry to suit the specific application.

I spent lots of wasted time trying to open safes with just the safe-books, then I finally bought a couple of borescopes, I thought that made things easier until I bought a drill rig. I shoulda def bought the drill rig First or even right after
I began buying the safe books. The safes I have opened using my Strong Arm Mini Rig have been soo well drilled that all I have needed was a flashlight to dial them open. That is when/if You have a drill point already though.
Now that I have spent about $3,500+ on parts, locks, books and tools plus tooling (carbide drill bits and many other things) I can much more easily open a safe than in the beginning. Also I can open that safe in a reasonable amount of time.
I highly doubt that I have recouped the amount I have laid out on the above costs, but as You likely know already about programming transponder keys, these items are all write-offable as a "cost of doing business" and while you can open
a safe without all the things I mentioned it is all about Your personal comfort level.

Far as my charges go I like to stay under $250 to drill open a medium to large decent quality safe. I think You hafta be very careful when you quote a price, as the customer will expect Your quote Before any actual work has been done. I always
remind the client that I can't know if a relocker has fired in their safe and that I cannot include that in my fee. So Far I have gotten past any fired relockers, with my tricks. Last time it was a Star round door lift-out safe. The bottom cover
screws had finally loosened up as a result of the employees carelessly tossing it upon the floor for years. I was able to use my magical deadblow hammer to force the bottom cover up, while dialing the safe open. A little lock-tite fixed
that thing up good.

Thanks for your info Mr Jones. man I just cant see being tired up that long. Was thinking about learning more of my field but. Automotive is so fast. I can make 175 in 5-20 mins. Mr Jones you see my vidoes I posted last week? I showed how I make a igntion key on a Ford and a GM

I didn't catch your videos man

Auto will ALWAYS be more $$ than safes. I do safes for fun not for profit but, I do charge obviously. Every now and then I get A good one like a big gun safe I spend real time on and charge 3-400$. two of those day? yeah its good money but most of time its a sentry safe from home depot you tell someone 150$ and they say "150$?! eff you, I'm just gonna drop the thing off the balcony, call cousin 'berto with the angle grinder, hit it with a hammer" Its a lot like lockouts totally depends on the customer but I dont do lockouts any more as there is barely any money in it.

350$
roughly 1 hour: pull dial/drill hole/scope/open/reassemble/change combo , drill pound back safety deposit lock (top door)




250$ roughly 30 mins
pull dial/drill hole/scope/open/reassemble/change combo