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I have 2 Medeco classic mortise cylinders that I already made a hand cut key for, but it's a little sloppier than I'd like, so I found the depth and space chart for it, but I'd like to know what the pin numbers are. E.G. one pin measures .265" what number would this be? if someone can send me a list, I'd GREATLY appreciate it!

Thanks,
Will

Medeco Original key pins:

1 = .245"
2 = .275"
3 = .305"
4 = .335"
5 = .365"
6 = .395"

pin stacks were .515" tall total when you added the key pin length to the driver pin length. These are called balanced pin stacks and lock makers do this to make the key insert and withdraw smoothly, even wear on the pins and key, and to make decoding pin stack heights tougher.

driver pins:
1 = .270" (regular or mushroom)
2 = .240"
3 = .210" (regular or mushroom)
4 = .180"
5 = .150"
6 = .120"


You have probably already read about the 3 angles, they are Left, Center, Right.

Squelchtone

Squelchtone, thanks for the info, This is what I needed! I noticed some of the drivers were longer than others, so I now know why as well.
This should make hand cutting keys easier now!

Thanks again,
Will

EDIT: DELETED A DUPLICATE POST

Would you be able to assist with the decoding of a biaxial with no driver pins? I'll try and attach a image ]

heh, I was just checking the forum and you replied to a post from 8 years ago, that's crazy that I happened to see it tonight. I dont know the cam lock pin lengths by sight from that photo, and with Biaxial you're going to deal with 6 possibilities, 3 Fore and 3 Aft. Someone else with better eyes will have to jump in and help you.

The chart and parts lists here will probably help: https://www.lockpicking101.com/viewtopi ... =9&t=65555

then you can take the part numbers from the above post and visit ebay and compare photos from your pins to the pins for sale

here is part TP-F90-6S which is the 6S height (Aft Right pin)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Medeco-Biaxial ... SwnFleWXfB

Yeah I realized the age of the post means I was lucky to get a response, and I appreciate you for that. I'm just not sure how to translate the information you have provided into a proper cut onto a key. And then on top of that the machine I have isn't exactly friendly to the cut measured by sight and feel, either that or my brand newness to it is the problem. I own the switch blitz and as I'm sure you realize it cuts by a card with the caliper reading already printed out and marked. I've tried every medeco card it came with, as well as cutting the groves out of a core and molding the key with the pins in the unlocked position, the trying to duplicate that onto a blank and so many other things and everything so far has been a waste of energy and metal. I recently figured out how to create a great blank with photoshop and my 3d printer so now I'm now killing key blanks anymore. As I stated in another post I am a complete and utter noob in this world and I appreciate the time you took to share that post. Thank you!

I have to ask, but is this just for fun or the challenge of it and are you a hobbyist or a locksmith trying to make a key for a customer lock? Those answers are going to determine how much effort you and we are all going to put in to getting you answers and eventually a working key. If this is just for fun, then you've already realized it's not an easy thing to do, so might as well just buy another lock with a working key for $30 dollars here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Medeco-72S-Cam-Lock-High-Security-with-2-Keys/233596175023. If this is for a customer, then again, buy another lock and keys already pre cut. if this is in intellectual, I'll be damned if I can't do this, and I'm willing to spend a month on it just to prove I can -challenge, then I can totally relate as I have that sort of attitude as well, and we can certainly throw some more ideas around, but at the same time I know I can't commit hours and hours to helping you make a working key just to prove you can do it.

So can you provide some background on what drives you to work on this? I feel like that context is important in this case. Also, I don't know just how much of a beginner you are, since most beginners don't own their own Blitz machine, so it seems like you kinda know what you're doing if you're trying to decode a Medeco lock, it's not like you're trying to repin a Schlage.

Thanks for any info you can share.
Squelchtone

Let me first thank you again and everyone else who hasent yet but will chime in for help. I wish it were as simple as a customer needing a key, I am no locksmith, I have a powerwashing company which currently serves as main revenue stream. I guess it started out as fun but has briskly ushered itself into what my wife would call an obsession lol what has made me not throw my hands up and call it a day would definitely have to be the challenge in it. I have a "thing" for keys and locks. Don't get me wrong I have a lot interests but there's something about keys and locks that are preticular. I was perusing the local yard sale scene a few years ago when I happened upon a gallon freezer bag of locks and next to it were a equal sized bag of keys. The lock in question and a few others like it were in there and after trying every key found that it was gone. Let me tell you because of this lock I now have a hpc switch blitz, the Triton by lock labs (I think) and a key blank mill. Some would say I go a bit over board, I just like to think that I'm thorough. I have made some progress since our last conversation. I made some blanks with my 3d printer so I've been a lot more willing to just go out and cut what feels right lol any ways I was able to make a plastic key that would allow the sidebar to depress as long as I guess you can I persuaded it a little the let it do own thing. Any way it non functional, the process is hard to replicate and I grunted it would produce different results if I were to try (again.) One thing that I can't seem to find any where is if I bust my hands dandy calipers, what point do I measure from? Chisel tip to hole? Hole to the other side? Then once that is figured out how do I translate that to cut depth? Measure the keyway and subtract the two numbers?an this is awsome the first place that engages my questions, I love it you guys rock!

I think a lot of us have key machines and other gear we probably shouldn't, so I have a feeling you'll fit right in with our level of obsession with this hobby. I will need to dig around for the actual dimensions of those pins, I think I have a friend who has a pin kit and could decode them for you based on the photo you posted earlier.

Have a nice weekend,
Squelchtone

Man, that's awsome. I've been trying to figure this out for the longest! Once I'm able to make the keys I think I'm gonna put them on my tool boxs or cabinets in my shed. I can't wait! Lol you have relaxing weekend as well

this should help you with pin lengths / cut depths, you'll have to determine angles yourself based on this starting information.

these links are for Series 90 Biaxial driverless Medeco cam lock pin photos.

4K pin
https://i.imgur.com/JLJGc5J.jpg

5K pin
https://i.imgur.com/7MXi0sJ.jpg

6K pin
https://i.imgur.com/unNDCtJ.jpg

7K pin
https://i.imgur.com/4sPJleh.jpg


your pins appear to be these sizes:

5
6
4
6

you may have your Fore and Aft flipped on the Sharpie written next to the pins.

thankyou for the correction, im kinda new to the whole pinning tray and im sure i have them facing the wrong direction too. as for the pictures, they are awsome and thank you so very much; how ever i cant find a card for my hpc blitz that has 7 cuting depths. i scoured instacode for every medeco card they have and am coming up with nothing. am i not getting something?

I donno, maybe the cam lock keys were only able to be cut on a real Medeco machine or on an ITL9000. Let us know if you find out!

i certainly will. thank you for your help. i really appreciate it all