Removing Schlage LFIC Cores

[easy-e]

I've read multiple threads about this (This one is from KP, but I've read others on the other sites as well) http://keypicking.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=8352

I was working on a lock at work about a month ago. Someone had switched out the Best SFIC's on the outside doors of the other side of the warehouse with Schlage Everest LFIC's. I picked one of them and tried to get it to control, but ended up just pulling the whole mortise and switching it with another one I had. I spent a few hours on it at home and never got anywhere. I figured out that my issue was that the spring return on the control pin actuator is held about 5-10 degrees CCW. I picked the lock clockwise, then went back as far CCW as possible, and the control pin wouldn't lift. Since I didn't want to destroy one of my few control keys (i have some on order to make a tool) I ended up taking off the tail piece and going after the control pin from the rear while I picked the lock. It worked pretty well and I had another one lying around I had never picked and I got it pretty fast using this technique.

Are the control pin actuators on other brands of LFIC or FSIC not spring loaded? Because that would make the pick it, rotate back and lift control pin technique a lot easier.

[xeo]

I figured out that my issue was that the spring return on the control pin actuator is held about 5-10 degrees CCW. I picked the lock clockwise, then went back as far CCW as possible, and the control pin wouldn't lift.

It sounds like maybe you didn't go back far enough or perhaps you weren't touching the actual control pin and were touching the 6th pin? What you're describing with not being able to lift the control pin sounds like what happens when you pass the threshold for being able to lift the pin.

[easy-e]

It sounds like maybe you didn't go back far enough or perhaps you weren't touching the actual control pin and were touching the 6th pin? What you're describing with not being able to lift the control pin sounds like what happens when you pass the threshold for being able to lift the pin.

I gave up trying to lift from the front and was lifting from the back to make sure I was on the correct pin and not hitting anything else. The actuator is sitting slightly rotated CCW and with the plug rotated slightly CW the control pin just won't lift. I was curious so I tried rotating the plug so it was slightly CCW and I could lift the control pin but that is useless because I need to rotate the plug CW.

[Riyame]

With the Schlage LFICs, the control pin must be lifted straight up, you do not rotate it at all. At neutral position the control pin is below a lug that retracts the pin to take out the core. A normal key is 6 pins and does not touch the control pin.

A control key is 7 pins and the last cut is the same on all control blanks. So there is no way to rotate the cylinder to get the control pin into place when using a control key because the pin is already lifted. When picking you pick it normally and then you push the control pin up and turn it CW and it will turn harder than normal but keep pressure on the plug while pulling it out.

If yours is different there is a chance it could be faulty perhaps?

[jeffmoss26]

The control pin is a fixed depth of 6.

[easy-e]

With the Schlage LFICs, the control pin must be lifted straight up, you do not rotate it at all. At neutral position the control pin is below a lug that retracts the pin to take out the core. A normal key is 6 pins and does not touch the control pin.

A control key is 7 pins and the last cut is the same on all control blanks. So there is no way to rotate the cylinder to get the control pin into place when using a control key because the pin is already lifted. When picking you pick it normally and then you push the control pin up and turn it CW and it will turn harder than normal but keep pressure on the plug while pulling it out.

If yours is different there is a chance it could be faulty perhaps?

Yeah, I know how they work and I have control/operating keys for my other locks. This was just a lock I don't have keys for and I needed to get it out of the IC housing so I could take it apart and decode or re-key it. Turns out it is C145 instead of C123 like our other locks.

[Farmerfreak]

If you have a working key (any working key) you can add solder to the tip and file it down a little to match the keyway. Then you'd have a new control key! It may not last as long for as many uses as a real control key, but it does the trick.

[DennisK]

If you have a working key (any working key) you can add solder to the tip and file it down a little to match the keyway. Then you'd have a new control key! It may not last as long for as many uses as a real control key, but it does the trick.

Ha,now that's a cool trick!

[GWiens2001]

Had to do that with a Schlage Primus IC that was in a housing purchased off eBay.

Another trick is to cut the tip of a key blank to a 6, then cut it off the blank, and trim it to be about 1 pin spacing long. Put it in first, then your normal key. Once the LFIC comes out, the piece of key at the tip will fall out, so do not keep playing with it! If it falls out a bit, it may then not leave enough space to do the trick again.

Gordon

[easy-e]

If you have a working key (any working key) you can add solder to the tip and file it down a little to match the keyway. Then you'd have a new control key! It may not last as long for as many uses as a real control key, but it does the trick.

I've heard of this trick, but for the locks in question I didn't have keys for them. They are easy enough to pick so I'm just going to cut down a control key and use it to lift the check pin and the control pin. I don't have any issues with the check pin because I can get it with a half diamond, but it would be a useful tool regardless. If I cut down enough, I should be able to use the same tool on every profile. I'll post a picture after I get around to making it.