Gun/Tool Oil

[easy-e]

I recently got some Raimundo custom bogota's from Serepick. I really like them but they developed some rust in my bag. I blame it on the Seattle weather. Do you guys use a light coat of oil to protect your picks from rust? If so what kinds have you had good luck with? When I was googling I found this site which had some good info: http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html For most of my other tools I've used generic gun oil or motor oil with decent success. Last time I cleaned my guns I used up the last of the gun oil I got from my dad a long time ago. From the reviews of new stuff it seems like they are not formulated the same as the old stuff.

[Alaphablue]

I put CLP on every thing it's always served me well it's a preservative and lubricant Or you could wipe then down with wd40 every week end .

[verz]

Personally I think much of the oil "specs" and "tests" are just marketing BS they get some additives and claim they are magic this and that/just marketing. Their are gun oil threads on the internet that go on for days.. with dozens and dozens of brands claiming to be the one = marketing and people regurgitating marketing.

I buy oil that does not smell bad I hate picking up guns or tools then my hands and everything I touch smells foul.

To me it really doesn't matter as a long as I oil things before they dry out. I live in Colorado so that is usually twice a year. When I lived on the coast it seemed like every week I would have to wipe down stuff.

[gnarus8429]

Stay away from WD40. It is designed as a water displacement chemical (WD). It is not a good lubricant. I like good old 3 in 1 oil but, it does have a very strong smell that reminds me of my grandpas workshop. I use those two mostly for wet sanding, tool making, and cleaning parts. I use hoppes gun oil as well. It cost a little more but, a very light smell and much better container. I use this on tools that I don't use very often and it protects them well. It leaves a film though (that is kinda the point) and can gum up especially if over applied or in intricate parts. The best thing I have though is a spray silicone lubricant. I use it on tools and guns. No smell, high penetration, never gums up, and no grease residue. For small intricate working parts it far surpasses oil in every regard. It works great on things I use frequently and have a tendency to gum up. It has cut my cleaning time at the range in half because it dosen't gum up. I have tried several but, have not been disappointed with any of them. Just make sure it is a liquid and not a paste. This is one I'm using now:

http://www.homedepot.com/buy/blaster-11-oz-dry-lube-silicone-lubricant-16-sl-thd.html#.UKgIM4cTJ2A

[Josh66]

My personal favorite is AeroKroil.

http://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil-Pe ... B000F09CEA
(That might not be the best price...)

I use that shit for everything...



It's kind of expensive, but the good shit usually is...

[atticRR]

there are also corrosion inhibiting pads and papers (wraps). ive spotted them at wall mart and i just looked up 'corrosion inhibiting wrap' on google. they emit some sort of magic vapor that keeps rust/oxidation from forming. obviously you dont want to wrap and unwrap a pick, but a bit of the pad in your pick-sack ought to work. i dont have any issues with this where i live, but i think i would try this stuff out and eliminate any oiling at all.

[Wizer]

I dont know much about gun oils, but most sewing machine oils are great. They spread good and dont gather dust that much.
For protecting against rust I would think that any oil would do. Its up to what you got or like.

[jeffmoss26]

I use Kroil or PB Blaster for removing rust/stuck tools etc. Kroil has good prices on their website. I think you get 2 cans for the price of 1.
For locks I got hooked on LPS 1 by the locksmiths at my college. I figure if it's good enough for them, then it's OK for me

[dicey]

I do not have any guns so I can not speak for that one but here is what I use on locks:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XCeZK3rF8mQ

Tunap MP101 and Tunap MP102

In my point of view that is what the professionals use and I love it each day more and more.
Oh, the video is my video and no I do not have a contract with them

[mdc5150]

Stay away from WD40. It is designed as a water displacement chemical (WD). It is not a good lubricant.

http://www.homedepot.com/buy/blaster-11-oz-dry-lube-silicone-lubricant-16-sl-thd.html#.UKgIM4cTJ2A

Actually, since the op is asking about keeping his tools from getting rusty WD40 would be the correct application here, he's not wanting to lubricate.

On another note, I love Zep penetrating oil because it does in fact penetrate the metal.

[verz]

Stay away from WD40. It is designed as a water displacement chemical (WD). It is not a good lubricant.

I grew up around WD40 as a kid, when I had trouble with my bike the grownups would pull out the WD40 and fix it. So I grew up think it was the stuff.. lol
Since then I have heard a lot of people bashing it and saying it had waxes in it that get left behind and create build up along with other bad things. idono.? but I have heard enough complaints about it I try to stay away from it when I am working with anything that has smaller intricate parts.

[easy-e]

I put CLP on every thing it's always served me well it's a preservative and lubricant Or you could wipe then down with wd40 every week end .

I've read a lot of stuff saying CLP is good stuff so I'm going to pick some up and give it a try. I've got plenty of rusty tools I've inherited over time so I'll try it on them before my picks.

Stay away from WD40. It is designed as a water displacement chemical (WD). It is not a good lubricant.

Actually, since the op is asking about keeping his tools from getting rusty WD40 would be the correct application here, he's not wanting to lubricate.

I do have a can of WD-40 but I only use it as cutting fluid when I'm working aluminum.

Stay away from WD40. It is designed as a water displacement chemical (WD). It is not a good lubricant.

I grew up around WD40 as a kid, when I had trouble with my bike the grownups would pull out the WD40 and fix it. So I grew up think it was the stuff.. lol
Since then I have heard a lot of people bashing it and saying it had waxes in it that get left behind and create build up along with other bad things. idono.? but I have heard enough complaints about it I try to stay away from it when I am working with anything that has smaller intricate parts.

My dad did the same thing to my bike and roller blades. I've give my roller blades a few squirts and my wheels spun very fast for a few days. Little did I know that WD-40 was displacing whatever grease there was left. After a few months of this my bearings were extremely loud and ended up destroying themselves. I eventually bought skate rated bearings with a removable race so I could clean it out and re-grease it properly.

Same thing with door hinges. WD-40 just loosens whatever grease is/was/might have been there and a few days later you are back to squeaking.

There are thousands of WD-40 threads online but I agree with gnarus8429 and I use silicone lube on most of my stuff with moving parts.

[the lockpickkid]

I use Tri Flow for everything and recommend it to all my customers as well, I have a can at work and a can in my tool bag. It's awesome for lubrication and rust inhibitor. It smells like bananas, once you use it the smell is sorta addicting. When I rekey locks I use a foam brush and apply a light film to the lock plug, works great.

[Alaphablue]

I believe wd40 is mostly white gas and some kind of oil mixed together good for wiping down tools in damp climates like the island in the Atlantic ocean were I live.

[Logan]

Marvel Mystery Oil it is to oil what duct tape is to tape.