Anything And Everything About Lock Picking
Pics to follow...
I think when Tobias talks about simulating a key, he means the way that a sliced up credit card or a piece of flat brass can simulate a Medeco key. You could pass it to an untrained person and they could use it to open the lock. So that would be difficult or perhaps impossible for an MCS.
A complex tool that simulated "the function" of the key, as in opening the lock, is not really a simulated key. Or at least that's the way I understand it. Even if your tool decodes the lock and then serves as a key, like many Falle tools do. It's still a complex tool and you are able to reset it somehow and use it to open other locks..
I thought I would show everyone how to read a key. It really is very easy.
A magnet small enough placed onto the keys' magnets will tell you the direction. It helps if you know which way is N and S on your magnet but it is not essential because it is all arbitrary anyway. - Wherever the magnet goes tells you where it needs to be, the polarity/direction is effectively meaningless. In the example below I have used round magnets on 3 of them and a row of rectangular magnets on the other. This shows how you can use different ways to read it off. You can also put a disc magnet on its side and that will point to a direction, like the rectangular ones.
From here you use the information from the key reading to make up a key. Here is half a key I made. The other half deals with discs on the other side and faces the opposite way.
It is very rough and ready (and you have to be very precise) but it is just illustrating that it can be done, and easily, with a few magnets and superglue! I have them lined up on (almost) the same plane because if you read a disc and the magnet needs to go at the opposite side to its neighbour, just flipping it over will mean it now needs to go on the other side!
Regarding manipulating an unknown MCS, I am working on that and hope to be adding more soon!
Reading and faking a key is the easy part, picking it is the hard part. Now this lock, like all others, has tolerances. I believe that they can be exploited. However, the precise moving of the rotors can be difficult, the amount of movement required to miss a gate is very, very small.
I might also have one or two other tricks up my sleeve, stay posted.
I am making 'bypass bars', they are essentially what you get if you cut the top and bottom off a key. So you can just concentrate on those evil magnets!
Btw, I sent you another email l0ckcr4ck3r.
Did you know that the keyway is mirrored on some locks?
also, the bow is 2.6mm thick but the blade is 2.1mm thick… so there is a step. This step is also moved around to create different profiles and the vertical slot milled into the plug face is what acts to block this change!!
There are also some other variations in the profile that i have found. The main problem is, mainly the photos we see on line are privately owned ones. This lock is aimed at the corporate and institutional sectors.
Basically there is only 1 profile and maybe 2 side biting codes assigned to the residential channels, Evva don't give a shit about it cause there no money in it! All the interesting stuff happens between installations or large deployments of the lock
Ill get some photos up when its done
GWiens2001: Great video! Learned a lot about what fun can be had with a forklift and a chainsaw.
pmaxey83: but i first have to submit the proper forms for a new hobby to my wife
xeo: i root for the kernel
OldddffAASSTT the Spin Master Extraordinaire and American Lock Slayer
Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2011 3:16 pm
GWiens2001 wrote:Stunning work!
tumbl3r wrote:This is great stuff man! I've really wanted to dig into my MCS, but have been seriously afraid I'd brick my $200 lock. Your videos do a great job explaining how to get into and out of them!
Thanks again. You should go for it! From what I can see, the only way I can see you may brick the lock would be to re-assemble without some parts (sidebar or ball bearings) and then the pins get stuck there. Either way it's semi-recoverable by drilling the pin retainers out.
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