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My new project, now that I have defeated the dreaded M 15 of broke-dick innards, is a Master Lock 930. I saw that AWOL has a video on this where he just rakes it open. That's pretty cool, but I also would like to SPP mine. Right now I'll settle for popping it any way that I can however.

First, I'd like to know for sure what I'm dealing with. I count five pins - does anyone dispute that?

How many are likely to be security pins, and what type?

By the way, this one is mine:



It's the XDLH version, but as far as I know that only has anything to do with the shackle size and the rubber pads. As far as I am aware, the locks are the same on each of these.

Also, this sucker is supposedly rekeyable. I see a screw inside the shackle clasp when I open it. Is that what I take out to remove the cylinder?


In some of the videos I saw on youtube, people are again using two wrenches to pick this lock. Why? AWOL only used one and it worked fine. Is this another lock like the M 15 where there's a groove you can't see but that your shit will get caught up in when you try to tension it or what?

Why are people using two wrenches?

Here are two videos of people using double wrenches on their 930s:

One

Two

Why two wrenches?

Hey Tarquin.

Hey buddy.

Over here buddy.

Hey tarquin.

TARQUIN!!!

Okay.

Stop worrying about the fucking tension wrenches and how many pins and what security pins are in it and how many and what the lock had for breakfast. Stop watching videos of other people picking it and just pick it. It's not a project, it's a master lock with some spools in it. Pick it like normal and when it drops into false, pick the damn spools and you're outta there. That thing should take you a couple of mins max to pick the first time man, come on.

And keep your tension under control. I remember what you were saying the other day, there's no need for that shit. Be gentle with it.

I am worried about the tension wrenches because that is exactly what cost me 2+ months on this piece of shit M 15. Now I'm seeing people do the same shit with the 930 and I don't want to sit here another 2+ months trying to pick a lock I can't get tension on because there's a hidden fucking groove in the bottom of the chamber that my wrench is getting caught in.

Aside from that, your advice is sound. I do want to know why they're using two wrenches, though.

They are using two wrenches to prevent binding of the plug with the wrench. Putting tension on these can be tricky using bottom of keyway tension. I would suggest that you use top of keyway tension and you won't have to worry about it.

I have a 930 just like that one and it had no security pins in it.

I think one of my very few youtube videos had one of those in it as well, (master Disaster was the name) Just like Solomon said, and I have said in the past, just pick it, you overthink these Masters way way too much, Master don't make any good locks, you can pick all of them, no problem, just don't think about it. Not to knock anybody, but for some reason some people got to talking about binding tension wrenches and crap over at the "other" site, and I noticed alot of people using two tension wrenches, and toothpicks beside them, and all kinds of crazy ass crap, just stick a wrench in the SOB and go to fricken town!! By the way, the few that I have had had pins just like the American version, serated drivers and keypins but never any spools, and yes, 5 pins.

Do not treat as your next project it is puzzle same as any lock take your time & you will pick it
lockpicking for a hobby has moved so fast in recent years do not get hung up on seeing what other people are picking on youtube
master the basics & you will defeat the lock then move on to the next one & before you know it you will be the one with a vid on youtube picking
a schalge primus or a medeco for example after all picking lock is a challenge & life is full of challenges
hope this helps

catch ya lata have fun.............................

I have some straightened paper clips in my pick case for this problem, but there is no need to over evaluate the problem. The problem and solution really is a pretty simple concept. If the tension wrench rotates separate from the cylinder and binds the housing, use a paper clip or other object to prevent that from happening.

Here is a video of mine with an American padlock (I know it's not a Master, but it's an identical problem)http://www.youtube.com/user/chessguy125#p/u/13/bvpILCIt76U. The tension wrench I have is terrible for bottom of keyway tension because it will rotate and bind the cylinder. But once I put the paper clip in there it no longer rotates separate from the plug, which prevents the binding problem.

I haven't been working on this lock at all. Mostly just working on picks and stuff. My Peterson picks should be here shortly and I'm looking into lots of other toys and gadgets lately too - trying to work on the blog and getting pictures of things and shit.

Anyway, for kicks I popped the core out of this sucker. It's a 5 pin for sure, but appears to be capable of taking 6. I almost wanted to take the core out so I could see how it was pinned (top pins I mean. The key pins are all standard) but I'm debating whether or not I should leave it a mystery to challenge myself more. Also, I can't get that stupid retaining clamp off the back of the fucking core, and I sure the fuck won't be able to get it back on if I do.

How do you guys get these clamps on and off without breaking the clamps?

Agree. just picking the fawken thing. I was ripping through these pieces of trash like a woodchipper when I was a noobsauce... they teach you binding order thats it. Sounds like you need to sit down for a good 24 hour nonstop session on some Americans or BEST 7 pinners until your fingers fragment all over the room.


We're not knocking you.. its just in the time it took you to write this post, you could have opened one.

I figured out the clamp thing. I just used a pair of pliers.

Concerning "double tension wrenches"... its completely unnecessary if you just default to TOK tension. The reason for double wrenches is to stop the wrench from binding into the keyway and stopping the plug from turning and shit. That second wrench is another buffer zone to apply adequate tension....... TOK TOK TOK TOK ! TOK = more pick room

if you're talking about the c-clip.. those take a little practice, but all you need is a tiny slotted screwdriver or some fucking baller locksmitharmy fingernails

Yeah, I'm trying to get use to TOK now. I think it's the better mousetrap, plus it creates a more consistent binding order from what I gather.

On the C-clip I just used a pair of pliers to push it back.

That really doesn't make any sense.. as long as there is axial tension on the plug the first same binding pin will bind no matter TOK or BOK.. if you change directions (CW or CCW) the binding order does change (usually), unless there is a setup like this: , or if one of the just happens to be an anomalous pin and is bigger than the rest, shit happens, you never know!

@ farmer freak,

your post above mentions using paperclips as filler/fitter for the bottom of the keyway when the tensor blade tends to rotate into a bind.

with a pair of bogotas, in a pin and spring device, if you have this problem, you can stretch the saftypin of the pick holder device to a 90 degree angle and put the sharpened end in the keyway while the spring and clasp part are left outside the keyway as the part that prevents the round wire filler from getting into the keyway too far.
I know you don't really like bogotas, but this is just another way that the pair that pins on clothing is versatile. it really can rake, and spp, and open handcuffs, and luggage locks while being easily carried in a hard to lose way without weighing too much or taking up too much space.
If farmerfreak doesn't have a pair of bogotas in the keeper pin on device, perhaps someone who does can try this and post about it.