NEW ™ Best "W"? profile SPP to CTRL shear

[awol70]

this lock has serrated/spooled keypins,,spooled drivers,
(shallow cut so they could almost be called serrations)
it is NUTS!
i may be wrong, but i believe this is the 'W' profile.
here are some stills,and a shot of the tools used.
if this is actually the "W" profile, i have discovered a fatal weakness/flaw.

[omegaman]

great job awol70 w profile not seen that one w profile I mean

[Steve]

Today me and a friend went down fishing at a lake near my house and i found a lock very similar to that hanging from a tree with a chain so when i got home i cut the chain off and i cant seem to pick it ill take pictures later tonight of it because the camera i use is in my moms car and she is working

Do you have any tips on picking best locks? and im pretty sure its i-core

It has the numbers A7 stamped on the core

[the lockpickkid]

I use light to moderate tension, and a short hook, some take longer than others and some are fairly easy, either way for me, I have never found one that took over 10 minutes to figure out! However, that is the first TOKE tension tool I have seen and I wonder if they would improve my picking! I think I want one!

[ToolyMcgee]

I want to say F rather than W because of the shape the keyway has worn, but honestly even in person visual identification is really unreliable. Trying blanks is the only reliable ID.

if this is actually the "W" profile, i have discovered a fatal weakness/flaw.

What might that be? Not a picking flaw... is there another blank that could work it? Some of the generic keys enter worn keyways they aren't supposed to be compatible on.

-Tooly

[awol70]

I want to say F rather than W because of the shape the keyway has worn, but honestly even in person visual identification is really unreliable. Trying blanks is the only reliable ID.

if this is actually the "W" profile, i have discovered a fatal weakness/flaw.

What might that be? Not a picking flaw... is there another blank that could work it? Some of the generic keys enter worn keyways they aren't supposed to be compatible on.

-Tooly

well, i found that the correct width tension tool micro serrated, actually kinda binds the plug to the ctrl sleeve...
i dont know if this would work on all this type of keyway, but it worked well enough
that i was able to
hit ctrl shearline (relatively) easily,keeping in mind these have spooled keypins,and spooled drivers.
what do you think?
( i was excited at first,but in hindsight i guess its not that fatal....)
=)

[ToolyMcgee]

well, i found that the correct width tension tool micro serrated, actually kinda binds the plug to the ctrl sleeve...
i dont know if this would work on all this type of keyway, but it worked well enough
that i was able to
hit ctrl shearline (relatively) easily,keeping in mind these have spooled keypins,and spooled drivers.
what do you think?
( i was excited at first,but in hindsight i guess its not that fatal....)
=)

I agree. You mentioned this in another thread, and I've been goofing with it since then. As long as the tension tool is wide enough to touch a right side of the keyway, and the left edge is in the bottom left corner where the control sleeve and plug meet, then the clockwise turning force can wedge it enough to make the difference noticable.

I saw on another thread that someone reduced a tensioner blade to a T shape to achieve only this jamming effect in the middle of the plug. It was for a LFIC Corbin Russwin, or Sargent. I don't remember the outcome, but it seems plausible that if this binding could work on a BEST, it could potentially help grab those sleeves. While your observation may not be a fatal design flaw for 1 keyway, it's definately a relevant perspective toward the picking of any IC lock with a control sleeve that has some potential to be jammed in a similar way.

Since it is the opposite of what you want a normal BOK wrench to do, then I say try the opposite. So where you would use a 3 o'clock position to apply clockwise rotation on a regular cylinder, use 9 o'clock to force the leading edge of the tool into that spot where it freezes up. Rounding a tensioners bottom edge causes trouble too. So do downward faceing teeth. So if you really rough up a rounded edge for the bottom, maybe it could do better than teeth alone. Anything to make it wedge tighter should make it work better. Twisting the wrench and forcing it in tight also seems to have some result. What do you think?


-Tooly