A section to discuss picking techniques for specific ultra high security pin tumbler, wafer, and dimple locks containing Bi-Lock, and other interactive pins. Locks discussed here would be Medeco, Mul-T-Lok, Best, ASSA/Abloy, Kaba, Sargent & Greenleaf, Schlage Primus, etc.
Werewolf wrote:I work on these locks on a daily basis.
To take them apart , we have a special key from Evva. It has the slot for the long pins in the center of the key , and the parallel groove just around that. This keeps the pins in the center of the core , so we can take it out without trouble.
Here's a pic of 2 of these. It's a bit blurry , I know.
The one on top is for our profile of 3KS+
The lower one is for the normal 3KS , any profile.
Sell me one of those keys!
When the key moves all of the sliders into the middle what keeps me from pulling the plug (except the clip)?
10ringo10 stated this before and at the moment I think he is right.
But somehow I think I miss something. This can't be right. This really would be a major flaw.
I don't have my 3KS around so I can't check.
Someone please help me out here!
Do I miss something?
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even if you removed the key (leaving the sliders in the middle) trying to attach the slide hamer would likely jostle them down to the bottom anyway.
I can forsee someone trying this attack, and possibly getting it to work on some styles of 3ks, but i highly doubt it will be a reliable attack.
for instance, most of the 3ks locks we see in america are the rim cylinder type with the square tail piece, due to that guy having them for such a great price on ebay awhile back. these have a large cam with a roll pin behind the circlip... i dont think ur gonna jerk that out.
in a euro profile it may be possible, ill advise greasing the lock to keep the sliders from falling before you try it.
inserting ANY key and removing it WILL set all the sliders to the center, assuming gravity or wiggling the plug does not make them fall (hence the grease)
some sort of shimi or probe holding the sliders up would be smart...
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