Side Bar bypass

[the lockpickkid]

Since I am becoming more proficiant in opening car doors I was wondering, is there a tool that I can make to get around the sidebar in an ignition lock to allow it to be picked?

[barbarian]

I actually saw a photocopy of the operating manual for this thing. Not sure if I can find it again. I don't think it was still in production.

http://www.google.com/patents/about?id=ZeAuAAAAEBAJ

[the lockpickkid]

Barbarian, that does give me some ideas, I think I need to go to the junkyard and see if I can purchase an old ignition to take apart, I am not that crafty at making tools but I really want to see what I can do to pick these. I don't have that much experience with sidebars, I have some Medeco locks, I play with them sometime, thats the only thing I have with sidebars, I don't think they are enough alike to be of any value to me in this project though!

[Spiritech]

I do it by drilling a small hole and using the back end of the drill bit to press on the sidebar.

You're talking old GM sidebar? Yeah, Spiritech nailed it. Pressure on the sidebar from a drilled hole is all I've ever used. I've played with a few on the bench, there's not much you can do otherwise.

[the lockpickkid]

ok, well thats it then! someday I may buy one of those drill guide things! I figured as much! Thanks guys

[the lockpickkid]

I do it by drilling a small hole and using the back end of the drill bit to press on the sidebar.

So I have been thinking about this and I wonder if you could help! If I get those ignition drill jigs can I still depress the sidebar and use the gosso picks to effectively pick the ignition or do I need better picks for this? Also after I drill I can press new face caps on the lock and that would eliminate the hole right? Reason why I ask this, is that there are a few repossesion jobs around here, if I could become proficiant at this it may lead to a job opportunity, maybe?

[barbarian]

Do they have transponders ? Lots do..

I thought the repo guys used a tow truck, or a set of factory keys cut from the VIN.

GM sidebar ignition with a transponder? Doubtful. Old school.

The drill point for putting pressure on the sidebar is on the side of the ignition casing. Not the face.

If you're looking at the keyway with the back of the key at 6 O'clock, and the cuts at 12 O'clock, the sidebar is to the RIGHT (3 O'clock).

Insert a key, place your thumb on the blank to mark the depth, remove the key and hold it to the side of the lock. Mark a point halfway between the first and last cuts. This will be the center of the sidebar.

Drill a small ( 1/8th or < 1/8th ) and insert a rod or wire to push with.
Using a strong short hook, rake the wafers\sliders until set, turn barrel with flat screwdriver.

[Spiritech]

GM sidebar ignition with a transponder? Doubtful. Old school.

The drill point for putting pressure on the sidebar is on the side of the ignition casing. Not the face.

If you're looking at the keyway with the back of the key at 6 O'clock, and the cuts at 12 O'clock, the sidebar is to the RIGHT (3 O'clock).

Insert a key, place your thumb on the blank to mark the depth, remove the key and hold it to the side of the lock. Mark a point halfway between the first and last cuts. This will be the center of the sidebar.

Drill a small ( 1/8th or < 1/8th ) and insert a rod or wire to push with.
Using a strong short hook, rake the wafers\sliders until set, turn barrel with flat screwdriver.

And the man's got it. Used this method for years now with great success.

Once I'm finished I usually re seal the hole with quick steel or lead.

[the lockpickkid]

That is a cool technique you guys have, I will have to get me some stuff from the junkyard and do some playing! Thank you for your input!

I use solder. Same effect. Hammer it flush, file it smooth, no problems.

Re-packing the holes with a soft metal is generally used when you have to drill any zinc die-cast locks.

[magician59]

I use solder. Same effect. Hammer it flush, file it smooth, no problems.

Re-packing the holes with a soft metal is generally used when you have to drill any zinc die-cast locks.

You just gotta make sure when filling the hole that you don't get any of the filler material into the sidebar groove. This may interfere with the proper operation of the lock. BTW: GM sidebars are spring-loaded. Rocker picks work like a charm. I get about 75% to 85% success with'em.

I also have a pick set (actually, more of a "neutralization kit") for the old 6-wafer locks. The kit has a very fine comb that goes in along-side of the wafers and neutralizes the wafer springs. I can then vibrate the wafers into position with a few light taps on the face of the lock. Kit also comes with a decoder. Works great on doors and boots. NOT for the heavy-handed, though.

Indeed. If filling a hole where any moving part of a lock interacts with the filler material, it should be checked and modified for clearence to avoid any problems later on.

Customers seem to have a knack for remembering things like the last person who worked on an ignition, but forgetful about things like paying bills. Strange, huh?


Hmm. Actually, I've never tried jigglers on a GM. Nifty, I might do that soon.

I can see how your comb system works. Also nifty.
Commercial product, or custom made?

[barbarian]

I thought some of the newer GM's were transponder keys ?

Anyway. What about determinators ?

http://www.llssales.com/product_p/deter-gm-1.htm

This set comes with their own Marshal keys.