A Mere Finish Question

[GWiens2001]

When using a fire drill, used that same oil from the side of the nose to lubricate the top of the spindle where it goes into a block. Makes it cooler do less drilling and do less drilling than the other end. Also used to use it for my Old Timer knives.

Gordon

[TheNatural]

Wipe your finger over the bridge of your nose and then wipe the blade with the oil that comes off.

That is a brilliant solution! I always hear about using it to eliminate the foam on the top of your beer(which is slightly gross when I think about it haha) but never for anything else. I will definitely be using that!! Thanks for the tip Neilau!

Oldfast, the profiles on those other hooks I posted a while back left much to be desired. I really tried to to be more meticulous this time and it worked out! Thanks for the encouragement! Also I meant to tell you that right after I made this hook I crushed an 1105 american with it in like two minutes or less! I almost shit myself! Thanks for all the advice you gave me and your post on Americans! It helped me immensely! The whole thing about finding your optimum lifting pressure in order to avoid over setting serrated pins played a monumental role in my success! Thanks so much!

[Neilau]

I hadn't heard of the beer/foam trick before.

I can see that it would work. A greasy mo will kill the foam as will a dirty glass etc.

Don't know why anyone would want to kill the froth.

Sorry all, I know not lock related ( beer related and that counts !!) but I love the way I learn something new as " one thing leads to another".

Cheers.

[Josh66]

I stop at 800 grit (sometimes 600, depending on the material), and break out the buffing wheel, then Flitz after that.

I will never use any polish again if it's not Flitz - it's that good. Hell, I even use Flitz polish in my tumbling media for my brass (reloading). That one is some specific blend for tumbling media though.

[MBI]

Back in the days when all good knives were made of “Carbon Steel”, like the old Schrade knives that would go black and the Sabatier chef’s knives etc, I was shown a trick by an old “Bushie” (Not GW!) for protecting the blades.

Wipe your finger over the bridge of your nose and then wipe the blade with the oil that comes off.

The bridge of the nose exudes an oil (Particularly on hot days) that works very well in protecting steel.

It’s free, 100% organic, all natural, non toxic and works.

It’s easy to give your picks a wipe every time you finish using them. Guaranteed to keep them shiny and rust free.

I have used it on my knives (and picks) for years and it works.

Interesting to hear that skin oil trick has worked so well for you on your picks.

In dealing with knives and firearms, the mantra in my neck of the woods has always been to NEVER store your carbon steel tools/weapons with fingerprints left on them; you always wipe then down with a lightly oiled rag before storage as skin oils can be a bit acidic and result in corrosion.

It usually just results in rusty smudges, but sometimes I've seen perfectly formed fingerprint-shaped rust spots on blued firearms. Sometimes you can even see all the lines and whorls, etched in rust. I know the acidity level in skin oils can vary widely from person to person. I wonder if the oil on the nose really has that much of a difference from the oils on human hands.

Could be interesting to test that one. I have some litmus paper here somewhere, hopefully I can find it and see what results I can get.

[Oldfast]

....Also I meant to tell you that right after I made this hook I crushed an 1105 american with it in like two minutes or less! I almost shit myself!....

HahAAA! One dead American, NICE!! Great to hear it helped some.
p-p-p-people helpin' people What it's all about round here!

[TheNatural]

I stop at 800 grit (sometimes 600, depending on the material), and break out the buffing wheel, then Flitz after that.

Josh, I agree man! I couldnt believe how amazingly the flitz worked! But are you saying that you hit the pick with the buffing wheel alone and then add flitz and buff again? Does that make a difference from buffing with flitz directly after sanding?

[Neilau]

MBI

GWiens2001 also did it on his Old Timers.

I know what you mean with finger prints (seen it on a lot of gun barrels) but I think that the oil from your nose (bridge part) is different . I will do a bit of research.

I'm not suggesting that "nose oil" should replace an oily rag. It's more of a temporary measure till you can do a proper oiling.

A VERY big nose would be required to treat a rifle or revolver etc.

The "nose oil" trick is for small items like pen/pocket knives and picks.

Like I said, I will do a bit of research and get back to you.

Cheers.

[rai]

fingers have a lot of salty/rusty sweat on them, I am willing to suspend disbelief on the nose thing until a fair test is done.

[Josh66]

I stop at 800 grit (sometimes 600, depending on the material), and break out the buffing wheel, then Flitz after that.

Josh, I agree man! I couldnt believe how amazingly the flitz worked! But are you saying that you hit the pick with the buffing wheel alone and then add flitz and buff again? Does that make a difference from buffing with flitz directly after sanding?

I use a buffing wheel in a Dremel with some polishing compound on it, then go to the Flitz. The Flitz is applied by hand.

I have never tried using Flitz instead of the buffing compound - it may work just as well. Flitz just seems a little finer than the polishing compound to me.

The last step is always Flitz by hand with a clean rag, then wash in soapy water and dry.

[Neilau]

Re: Nasal sebum AKA "Nose oil"


Here are some references from a knife maker, Wikipedia and a list of other uses that surprised me.

Cheers

http://graymanknives.com/s30va.html

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nasal_sebum

This one is interesting:

http://www.tdpri.com/forum/archive/inde ... 82322.html

As a note the major component in sweat that corrodes is salt not acid.

I'm sorry I didn't mean to hijack this thread - should I or someone else start a new one??

[MBI]

Re: Nasal sebum AKA "Nose oil"

Here are some references from a knife maker, Wikipedia and a list of other uses that surprised me.

Cheers

http://graymanknives.com/s30va.html

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nasal_sebum

This one is interesting:

http://www.tdpri.com/forum/archive/inde ... 82322.html

So... weird.

[Josh66]

Cool. We're all walking around with out own personal source of lubricant, lol.