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Great video, thanks for pointing out the detainer lever, it may save me future headaches!

Cheers

It's a detector lock (not a detainer). It's made after 1851, but if you provide the serial number stamped in the end of the bolt it can be dated more accurately.

When I make such keys I silver solder parts together, plenty strong enough and no blow holes.

cheers oldlock, I realised my mistake and changed the title...Didnt realise there might be a number in the bolt...I've given the lock back now but will see if I can find out....I can and have silver soldered key parts before but thought it might be too weak for such a strong lock....Gonna give it a try now...cheers

Excellent darkhorse , love the lock and the key , can you go through the method for cutting , filing the key , i've heard of this but not seen it done

Ok nozza,
First off take all the levers out leaving just the bolt in position. Then start to file the flag on the key until it sits in the bolt groove and operates the bolt to lock and open smoothly.Then fit the last lever in position and scribe a line from the top side of that lever onto the flag. Fit each lever in turn and mark as before. This then gives you the spacings for the lever pack.Now take out all but the last lever. Using a vice and a thin sided file start to file out the first "bitting". Keep trying the key until the key raises the lever to the gate position and the lock opens...Now insert the next lever and do it all again..Long process but very rewarding.On this particular lock you have to keep resetting the detector lever because if you overlift it then it locks up.Once all levers are operating properly you need to file the side of the flag to clear the inside of the casing and youre good to go.

@oldlock.....does this give you a clue as to the date?

755933 ?? = 2nd qtr of 1876

I forgot to say, silver soldering if done correctly can be very strong indeed. It does however require aptitude, a degree of skill / understanding and practice to get good results.

you are a star oldlock much appreciated....

I have 2 other blank flags and pipe for this lock so will be trying the silver solder route as well

Make sure both surfaces fit together really closely.

Clean both surfaces well with emery cloth.

Use separate flux, freshly mixed when you need to use it. Do not use too much flux, if you do solder will follow it + it all needs to be cleaned off afterwards.

Don't be tempted to use oxy for such jobs, you can do that with a propane torch as long as you rest on a firebrick. It's too easy to overheat the work with oxy and that leads to problems. Heat the joint evenly, when the flux melts and goes clear touch one end of the joint with the solder, try not to heat the solder directly. What needs to happen is that the work is hot enough to melt the solder and it then flows along the joint / flux by capillary action.

If anyone is interested I can post some pictures of keys with soldered joints I have made.

cheers oldlock...I've done a few myself and use borax with water for flux.heat both items to cherry red and then introduce the solder....That was with stainless steel components...havent tried it with mild steel yet

and yes lets see your pics

I've a number of pictures to post, most of which are archived and will take some finding. The 1st two are about 15 years old so the camera back then was lousy and the resulting image quality is poor, but you can imagine the fun I had fabricating this lot ...