DIY prybar tensioner, is this genius or stupid?

[nine4t4]

I bought some prybar style tension/torsion wrenches, and the vendor uses too thin a stock. The thick one is just over 0.030.

SO I'm going to make my own. I was going to buy a dollar store, or thrift store knife, or spatula. But at dinner I was looking at my table knife. It tapers from the handle to the tip and looks like it's about 0.05 and tapers down to something close to picks (0.025). If I can get a knife deep enough to fit a fullsize prybar it could have two thicknesses on a single tool.

It sounds like a genius idea, is there a stupidness to the idea I'm not seeing? I know most of us use whatever is available and it's usually uniform thickness, wpier insert, street cleaner bristles, cheap steak knives.... It sounds so simple and brilliant a tool, I must be missing something, either in use or manufacturing. So far the only reason I can think of is that uniform thickness is how the manufacturers get most of their stock like us. they get sheets of 0.025 or 0.04 or 0.05 and it's not worth making a tapered tool. But for a one-off it sounds feasible


I'll post picks next week of the end result, but I doubt it will come across on camera


p.s. a shout out to bosnian bill on YT for showing how to make the serated prybars

[Anarchy_won]

I would just use a wiper blade insert, a knife will have a ton of material that needs to be removed.
please dont take that comment as negative if you make one please post pic's
also watch out that the metal doesn't get to hot or you will take the temper out of it (springiness of the metal)

[Malekal]

I would just use a wiper blade insert, a knife will have a ton of material that needs to be removed.
please dont take that comment as negative if you make one please post pic's
also watch out that the metal doesn't get to hot or you will take the temper out of it (springiness of the metal)

Which is most likely why my dear bogota snapped...

[Anarchy_won]

could be, if the metal starts to change color then you are having to much heat buildup, your best bet to to cool the metal with a coolant (water will work fine in this case)
I try for 10-15sec on a belt grinder then dip in water and repeat. the harder you press the metal into the grinder/sander the more friction you cause therefor more heat

[Malekal]

yeah i pressed pretty hard. will have to go get some mats to make another one

[farmall]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E1DXyhM ... wOUEXNb3Qk

[nine4t4]

Yeah, Farmall, Bill is great that's why I had to mention him.


Anarchy, no offense taken. But I don't think you understand what I was talking about. NOT -----> (which I have plenty of already). Obviously there is lots of material to remove, but that's nothing compared to what knives require in stock removal. I've got patience. Although, if you know how to turn a wiper insert into a prybar style, I'd love know. I've tried recesses and twists in inserts and it doesn't work as well. Even though I'm not thrilled with the ones I bought, going ToK on locks with spool pins makes it much easier (for me at least).

That's beside the point, I was more curious about the idea of having a differing thickness on the ends. Unlike conventional wrenches where the fit is determined by the width of the wiper, the prybars get their fit from the thickness of the wrench (and the teeth). I guess I was just expecting a "Yeah, tried that. It sounds good. but when you use them......."

The only way to answer the question is to just make them, and try picking with them

[Rumball Solutions]

Just as an aside, but relating to serrations or teeth on tension tools; if you have a hunt on eBay or similar you will find "Checkering Files" (often used by gunsmiths and tool makers).

They basically have a skip tooth pattern and will cut fine serrations in a single pass. One light pass each side and any tension tool, home brew or commercial, instantly has teeth.

If you make a lot of tools requiring serrations or grip surfaces they are handy to have around.

[Anarchy_won]

Yeah, Farmall, Bill is great that's why I had to mention him.


Anarchy, no offense taken. But I don't think you understand what I was talking about. NOT -----> (which I have plenty of already). Obviously there is lots of material to remove, but that's nothing compared to what knives require in stock removal. I've got patience. Although, if you know how to turn a wiper insert into a prybar style, I'd love know. I've tried recesses and twists in inserts and it doesn't work as well. Even though I'm not thrilled with the ones I bought, going ToK on locks with spool pins makes it much easier (for me at least).

That's beside the point, I was more curious about the idea of having a differing thickness on the ends. Unlike conventional wrenches where the fit is determined by the width of the wiper, the prybars get their fit from the thickness of the wrench (and the teeth). I guess I was just expecting a "Yeah, tried that. It sounds good. but when you use them......."

The only way to answer the question is to just make them, and try picking with them

I knew what you were talking about.... But whatever I only work with Metal for a living.... goodluck

[Papa Gleb]

I think music wire works just as well and take much less time to make. I have all the prybars from Peterson and Sparrows yet I dont use them, I use my music wire. The part that goes into the lock is smaller giving me more space to tackle that first pin.

[swarfLA]

Here is a set I made about a month ago - watched Bill YouTube clip and was inspired!

Picked up 2 knives from the $1.00 store - each had enough for 2 or more if you are thrifty with grinding.

Took me about 45 minutes each the first time - next set maybe less time. I use them a lot more than wiper inserts as I find the feedback a bit more positive.

[femurat]

Although, if you know how to turn a wiper insert into a prybar style, I'd love know.

Heat it and bend it. It's that simple.