Lockwood 234M45 challenge lock

[aeporia]

I’ve had incredible fun making these as well as picking them myself not long after gaining my first pinning kit of LW standards, and seeing Flywheel’s idea.

UPDATE #2 - http://youtu.be/ppxKFAsexdM Opened on video. The pin- in-pin design is really pretty incredible. It changes everything you thought you knew about feedback. It's springy before and after you set the pin. It's springy whether it's binding or not. The only time it's not springy is if you overset a key pin, and after the deep false set. That said, once you get to know what you're looking for in feedback, it becomes attainable (not easy, just not impossible). The trick is the push past the springyness until you start engaging the outer pin. Of course, when the lock has different types of pins inside (some not pin in pin), even that can trick you and give you deceptive feedback. I had a huge advantage in picking this because I knew what was inside before I started, and I unwrapped the keys. Without those advantages, this lock would have been much harder.

The bitting is a whole different story. That alone would have made this lock a challenge. When combined with the unique pins, it really bumped the difficulty level up a few notches.

This has been a ton of fun to pick, and has forced me to expand my skills. I can ask for nothing more in a challenge lock. Thank you to Aeporia.

…and even though I learned a lot too, I think this has made it easily twice as worthwhile. Thanks for the video, and the trade. :3

I’ve still got your address: I’ll try grab you the original 334B45 brass core and the stock (new!) ASSA Abloy LW discrete spools that they fill 5 of 6 chambers with by default (mercurial here kindly traded me a whole bag of these so I have plenty). I’m also planning on visiting the one Locksmith I’m finally a bit friendly with to see if I can also get a hold of a bag of the steel anti-drill pins that can slot into the front of the core, near chamber #1. I also still have the original keys I think. (;

Re. feedback: I agree with your assessment, in particular: “The trick is the push past the springyness until you start engaging the outer pin.”

Over-lifting is the core threat here, but in a way slightly different to standards, or most other security pin drivers: they either remain springy altogether (not binding) or bind; but with the PiP you tend to have to lift more before you begin engaging the outer jacket. Sizing plays a role here: the height of the outer jacket relative to the height of the bar of the T-pin-esque inner-pin.

Some things I want to experiment more on from here:

— all drivers PiP, w/ or w/o extra mini springs vs PiP mixed with other more common security pins
— learn more about making security keypins… I want to make it easier to trap stuff
— key some compatible LW cores of the restricted, more paracentric keyways (^_^)

See how things go with the next one.

Thanks mate. (:

Edit: re. the counter milling: I need a tap and die, because that was attempted with a file, and I don’t think it worked out well.

[HT4]

…and even though I learned a lot too, I think this has made it easily twice as worthwhile. Thanks for the video, and the trade. :3

My pleasure.

I’ve still got your address: I’ll try grab you the original 334B45 brass core and the stock (new!) ASSA Abloy LW discrete spools that they fill 5 of 6 chambers with by default (mercurial here kindly traded me a whole bag of these so I have plenty). I’m also planning on visiting the one Locksmith I’m finally a bit friendly with to see if I can also get a hold of a bag of the steel anti-drill pins that can slot into the front of the core, near chamber #1. I also still have the original keys I think. (;

That would be awesome. Thank you. If I can get you anything from this side of the world, let me know.

Re. feedback: I agree with your assessment, in particular: “The trick is the push past the springyness until you start engaging the outer pin.”

But easier said than done!

Over-lifting is the core threat here, but in a way slightly different to standards, or most other security pin drivers: they either remain springy altogether (not binding) or bind; but with the PiP you tend to have to lift more before you begin engaging the outer jacket. Sizing plays a role here: the height of the outer jacket relative to the height of the bar of the T-pin-esque inner-pin.

I have a theory about another weakness... it doesn't apply to your lock because of the extreme bitting and the mini springs, but if it works out I may have a shortcut for Flywheel's lock. More on that via YouTube if my theory works.

Some things I want to experiment more on from here:

— all drivers PiP, w/ or w/o extra mini springs vs PiP mixed with other more common security pins
— learn more about making security keypins… I want to make it easier to trap stuff
— key some compatible LW cores of the restricted, more paracentric keyways (^_^)

See how things go with the next one.

Thanks mate. (:

You really hate lock pickers, don't you?

Of everything mentioned above, a more difficult keyway (combined with your usual nasty bitting) would add the most pick resistance IMO.

Edit: re. the counter milling: I need a tap and die, because that was attempted with a file, and I don’t think it worked out well.

No need to get anything for tapping. Since you are going into brass (a very soft metal), you can convert a normal steel machine screw into a workable tap. You just have to file a couple cuts into the side of the screw. That's what I use. I'll take a picture this evening for you.