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yes! Just forgot to reply, looks great!

If I had any doubts before, now its official, I hate the Y1. Take a look at this sweet WB padlock that took an hour to impression and that was such a delight. The marks were nice and clear and this was actually fun. Compared to the Yales I did just before this which was a game of guessing and hope lol.

The blank was originally too long so I had to file the tip just enough for the shoulder to reach. Once the key was fully operational, I shaved more of the tip off to make a nice finished key.

Love these WBs. This one is the first I seen that I was able to shim to break the shear line and get a good reading of the pins. Which I stopped doing but good thing I decided to get a reading here as you can see pin 3 is at its highest. This one took 30m with easy big marks with every pass. Because I was able to get a good reading, I knew pins 1, 4 and 5 were low so I filed them more with every pass then pin 2 appeared for a few passes and the plug turned.

One important part to note is that if you file with the tip of your file your cuts will be narrow so the marks wont be in the middle but on the sides. Im still figuring out if I widen the cuts as I go or do I continue to use the tip of the file and at the end widen them. I think as I go but Ill explain my thinking next time but its very important to have a good look at the 1st pin and what its condition is. If its flat, round or pointy, this will give you a good idea as to what the marks will be like.

This key is not complete, the blank was too long so I filed enough just for the shoulder to reach and it was already very late. I will take the rest off to make it near the last pin. I also figured out a way to make the cuts dull so it matches these old lucks better.

Looking great! Thanks as always.

GREAT WORK!

And the fun continues. Had 3 left for Jeff Moss so I got to work. The first one I started with sure gave me a good run. All 5 pins kept giving me marks and the lock was dirty so its was marks mixed with dirty and as I brushed the dirty off marks wold fade away so I kept going and you can see why all 5 were giving marks (It mixed in the pics but its the key with pin 1,2,4 and 5 at its lowest) then after taking a moment to gather myself I started on the next which opened in about 5m no kidding lol. After 2 or 3 passes the lock opened and I froze asking myself what happened lol. The next was the last of this bunch and it was fun. Nice clear big marks all the way to the end.

I tried my best to make the cut not seem so rounded but for some reason these pins kept rubbing on the edge of the cuts so I didnt have a choice or im not that good yet! . Ringo is working on making a code card so Ill be cutting all of these on a code machine to give Moss nice code cut keys to go along with his nice old locks.

Great job. The force is strong with you!

Thanks. This stuff is super fun for me. The blanks were too long on all of them so I had to shape/cut them but they fit and work perfect. Well near perfect, one of them is weird as it sticks left but not right then if you lift the key a bit it sticks right but not left. I wasted a blank trying to fix this but realized its a waste. I think the pins have over the years have took a liking to one side more than the other.

You are the man!!

Dude the Amer Mall lock is one I have been waiting for literally. I have been hoping to run into a bitting like it that will turn in just a few passes and it did. Im telling you I was stuck for a few moments thinking what just happened, did I brake the blank? or did the plug brake lol.

I should make a sign, will impression for locks lol

looking at the pads - there small so I think there the baby pin - .115 from shoulder then every .135

could be .125 but I did not know this morning when I sent you all info for all w.b - confusing but necessary

overall the w.b as 7 to 8 depth cuts - depending on lock & try the card sent would be best way to find out

great work

No Im clear. I just didnt have a chance to measure it and only late late last night I realized I can use my calipers to measure a key. Before that I was planning to print and stick it in the HPC to measure. Ill get the measurement to you tonight

I think a lot of peeps think as the wb pads are old there all cut with 4 or 5 depths on key -

0 - 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 depths - lol that's hell of a job - when all space info is different & no hpc or cards exist

Have noticed looking at framon codes in book - do not match there genericode data also on a few - interesting

a lot of locksmith make there own cut cards - by transferring s&d data onto cards - for there own use

no rush - work in progress

edit : found out today master has almost the same depth cuts as the w.b pads - very little difference on checking
so a master padlock cut card on instacode could be used for cutting depths on the w.b small pads -

Great stuff Gleb!

Ringo, hope everything is well because I havent heard from you but if you see this the spacing is as follows:
Shoulder to 1st cut is approx. 0.165 and its approx. 0.141 between cuts. I measured the few keys I had at my house at that time but they all measured the same so I as approx but its actually pretty close if not dead one.