Sorry for the delayed response; I'm currently house/dog setting... no intrenet there.
FYI, I'll be headed back out there again for another couple days.
Thanks so much everyone for taking the time to chime in.
At this point, I can use any & all tips you're willing to offer!
mdchurchill wrote:Mike you are a talented man. I've never come close to being able to impression an American Lock. I just recently was show in person the 'turn and bind' technique and for some reason this time it clicked for me. I picked it up and started running with it. But it's been a year and a half since I first impressioned a lock and I still suck at it for the most part except the cheap wafer locks.
You always make detailed quality posts and I can't wait to see more from you on this. I'm sure you'll be competing with Jos Weyer in no time.
I've watched you learn. There's not a doubt in my mind you'll become skilled with this (hopefully with time, I will too
Dunno if I'm comfortable with my name even being in the same sentence
with Jos... HaHA!... but thank you.
@Piotr; Thanks. I've yet to do much reading on the subject, but look foward to delving in a bit more. What book is that?
Seems to make sense avoiding the use of substances needlessly. It's nice to have a plan B if I happen to lose my way
halfway through though... and it's good to know what some of the other options are.
I don't see any mention of good light. As my eyes decline
the absence of light means failure. I have found over the years that nothing beats natural sun light, the worst light for me is fluorescent. Incandescent is second choice. That is ME. Maybe different people will have a different preference. A proper file is also on the "must have" list. I use a 6" #4 pippen. These two things will make your learning curve and success rate go up. The other advice here is quite good, heed it!
Good point! Seems to make all the difference in the world. Another thing I've noticed in regards to light is the angle
in which you place the key in relation to the light source. By looking very closely while slowly rolling the key, impressions will pop out at me that I previously thought weren't there. This has helped me recover several times when I thought I'd reached a stand still. And though I've not needed magnification yet, I think it will become necessary as I progress to other locks.
Solomon wrote:Those look fucking great. I have to admit I actually just started looking at the pictures, but when I saw the americans I had to scroll back up to read what you said cos I thought they were the actual keys... fantastic job man. What files are you using?
For creating the "factory looking" American keys, the right files will make all the difference... currently, I DO NOT have the right files! lol. I've been using a hobby set with various shapes & sizes (triangular, square, flat, etc.). They're very small & difficult to work with. I've mainly used the flat file for creating the flats & angles. Problem with this file is the edges are perforated as well as the flat cutting surface (and the sides have a knife edge shape to them). So when attempting to cut an angle in between bittings, you can imagine how easy it is to accidently cut into the bitting itself. A REAL bitch and a game of timing if you will. I must get the angle correct JUST prior to hitting the bitting one last time... AND arrive at the correct depth :/
I flat file with smooth and slightly angled edges would be insanely ideal for this.
But until I can either purchase something like this, or modify one... holy shit man! (shakes his head
jeffmoss26 wrote:Very nice stuff, one day I will have the patience to really try impressioning.
I've got lots of Corbin locks that need keys made if you want to practice lol
Jeff, I would absolutely love the opportunity for some experience while at the same time helpin' you out!
However, I wasn't even sure if I'd be able to do your locks any justice, lol. So you prompted me to try one.
A few things though:
Although ACE had Corbin blanks, they didn't have one in the particular profile I needed.
The next best thing was this S1 (Sargent?) blank. Also, nearly all the keys they carry are
plated. This shine looks nice with some locks... but I'd really prefer a simple brass color
look to go with most locks. Not to mention, I pay a dollar a blank there, when I could be
finding blanks for around 30 cents! I'm REALLY gonna have to start searching and see if I
can't build up a nice variety of blanks at a decent price! (hint hint.. PM's welcomed
Also, impressioning this Corbin was unlike any of the other locks I've done up to this point.
I really had to fight for this one. The process was just not as distinct and straight foward
like I'm use to. There was a couple times I came to a standstill and had to use the
pull-out method in order to give me some
kind of direction in which to proceed.
All-in-all, I did
win though.. lol.. but it was certainly a bit different.
So Jeff, I've a couple more Corbins of my own I'd like to tinker with... see if I can't get a bit more
efficient with em' before committing to someone else's locks. But IF you decide you'd like to send
some my way, I'd be happy to cover the cost of getting them back to you. Also keep in mind, I can't
guarantee results LOL, nor can I give you a time frame. It might all be done within a couple days of
receiving them... or it could be a couple weeks. I'm an obsessive lunatic that can usually be found
headed in any number of directions (and it's possible I may not be headed in your direction when I
receive your package
) LOL, just being honest. Anyway, if you're good with all that, then it sounds
to me like a good time. Thanks for the offer!