A short cut for pin tumblers.

[locksyth]

I run a Sharpie (permanent marker) down the blade surface. It make it really easy to see marks from the pins. As you file, just keep applying marker. I use this every time. It cuts my impressioning time at least in half.
So far it is not as impressive on auto locks.

Bluing, Smoking, Marking are all common impressioning techniques.

Bluing involves using marking blue, commonly found in machinery and sheetmetal working places.

Smoking is applying a thin layer of carbon. Just hold the blank over a flame.

Marking is using a black marker. Try using a whiteboard or permanent to see which works best.

Personally I prefer to just shine the key with a very fine file. Once it's got a uniform shine to it, any marks are easily seen in the light.

[Rytanfan93]

My favorite was burning candle- soot forms on flat steel lever lock blanks and then filing. First impression tech. The filing shine tech you speak of I used for pin tumbler- then I saw this foil tech. Haven't tried it. Clown, have you done the foil tech for impression work? I was curious about it.

That's the wide-comb cut keyblank with a sliver of foil inserted down the length of the blade, worked into the lock until the pressure of the pins pushes down to bring everything to the sheer line?

Nope, never done it.

[locksyth]

I just find that the marker looks the least strange to the client. Candles and foil get odd looks. The shine works well, I just personally like the marker.

[thelockoutguys]

i find that using a blue sharpie works best for me..and never liked burning..leaves mess and dirtys up the locks

[the lockpickkid]

I have tried and tried, I can't impression a key to save my ass! Hallis even sent me a impressioning cd, it's a good course, I have yet to try again, maybe when I get some more time

[magician59]

Back in the early '80s someone manufactured a rubberized key blank for autos. I only saw the Ford version, but there may have been others. It was a "wiggle" key of sorts, most likely intended for the repo industry. The idea was similar to the foil method. the key was inserted into the ignition and turning pressure was applied. The pins "found" their own shear line and the car would start without damage to the lock.

For beginner impressionists (hey...that title sounds kinda cool), I recommend starting with wafer locks. The marks are a lot more obvious, as they go across the blank as a line. Begin with a Chicago, Code series "FR", or Corbin Code series "CAT": they both use depths 1, 3, and 5, with 1 being a "no cut" depth (it represents the full width of the blade). You only need to get your marks twice.

[the lockpickkid]

I have some yale wafer padlocks with no keys, they are nothing special, would these be as easy to impression? They take the Y11 blanks I believe, also a keyway that I don't currently have blanks for, but my place that I buy boxes of blanks from is just down the road!

[.45cal]

LPkid you are not alone I have tried 4 times and cant seem to get a key that works.

[the lockpickkid]

LPkid you are not alone I have tried 4 times and cant seem to get a key that works.

I have tried more than that, I can't ever,EVER see the marks, it doesn't matter what I do! But I have a new impressioning video, I think I will do better now.

[thelockoutguys]

Well you didnt mention what you use to see the marks but with out magnification your not gonna get far...Most office supply stores sell the light with the giant magnifying glass in the middle for @ $60 or you can use what most i believe use and its what i use are the optical visors fairly cheap! and a good light overhead..

LT5000--246.jpg

[the lockpickkid]

I have a set of those like in the picture, I looked at this dvd on this and I am thinking I didn't bind the pins enough to make marks on my blanks, after I get some y11 blanks I am going to impression some locks, even if it does take me 50 keys, I don't care, I want to get it done!

Many people don't use magnification, some people can't do anything without it. Comes to personal preference, try each and see how you go.

Start with single-sided wafer locks, not pin-tumbler. File the keyblank to a knife-edge, this will let the wafers bite in more noticeably.

[ToolyMcgee]

You can't see the marks, because the cut of your file is too rough. Are you still trying to use something besides a decent swiss cut file?