Question about DIY american bypass

[clearmoon247]

So, ive been looking into making an american bypass tool for quite a while and have gone through many versions to get to where i am now. The material i use are wall hooks, which can be found at walmart for $2.50 for a 4 pack. They do hold their shape quite good and are quite strong for what they are. After filing one thin enough to conform to a regular keyway, ive come across a problem with it. If I try to insert it while the lock is locked, it wont go in all the way, but, if i unlock the lock first, put the tool all the way in, then lock it, i can then kick the cam *insert proper term here* and it will pop open every time. So, my question is, how can i mod this so that it can be used for a lock in the locked position?

[Alaphablue]

You tool is more than likely just a hair off .you might be able to take a black marker darken the tool try to use it and look for the bare spot were it is getting hung up . Or it might just need another sanding . Hope this helped

[clearmoon247]

That sounds like a good idea, i dont know why i didnt think of that

[elbowmacaroni]

I agree with AB there... if it won't insert, there is metal in the way, so a marker or some other method of darkening the metal so that the contact area will be shown is an effective approach. Now that said, my experience with homebrew american bypass tools isn't all that spectacular. They do work, however, it is very common for them to self destruct after only a few uses. If the "monkey hook" type wire works out for you for more than a few passes, that would be awesome info to know! Most people that I've talked to about making them have used coat hangar wire and that is definitely weaker than what they make the hooks out of. I look forward to hearing about your end results, especially to their reliability.

[clearmoon247]

well, the tool can go through the entire cylinder without issue, but when it is in the padlock itself, it seems like it can't get through when it is locked. but the material seems like it can stand up to the abuse, so long as i can fix that issue. The current model snapped because the shaft bent too many times while testing and it didnt get through the keyway 100% and twisted. I will keep you guys up to date with how it goes and any new updates i have, but there is alot of potential with these hooks.

[Alaphablue]

I have one made from a bristle off my chimney sweeper It works just not a good as my Peterson . Bypass tools have to be strong and thin but this type of metal is harder to bend cold . I just look for spiring steels already being used in some outer objects. these monkey hooks are a good score I will be getting some to play with thanks for the idea.

[clearmoon247]

Okay, so I finally got an American bypass tool from sparrow. It seems like i have the same issue with the actual bypass tool as i did with the DIY tool. I cannot get the end of the bypass tool between the cam and cylinder. I can put the tool completely through the cylinder without issue. I guess im just not 100% on how to get the bypass tool into position. I do understand how the bypass is supposed to work, if i insert the bypass while the lock is unlocked, then while its in place, lock it, the bypass tool works without issue, but if it's locked, i cant get the bypass in place. If anyone has ideas or tips to get the tool into position, they would be greatly appreciated

[sbear2000]

if the lock cylinder has the half moon on the back the bypass will not work because the bypass can not get between the back of the lock and the cam

[clearmoon247]

Not sure how that can be the case, because every american lock i have disassembled, including 1100 and 700 series all have a half moon on the back of the cylinder. I thought the issue with, say a 5200, was that the cam that rotates was a half moon and the bypass would be blocked because the cylinder would block it from rotating completely.
Here is what the internal components for one of my 1100 series locks looks like:

[Alaphablue]

When you have the tool inserted you have to apply down ward pressure and wiggle and twist till you feel it slide in to place then it will turn lock will pop open . There are some good YouTube vid giving instructions.

[sbear2000]

check this page out. under Forensic Evidence it talks about the American 700 being redesigned to stop the bypass.


http://www.lockpickingforensics.com/bypass.php

[clearmoon247]

That redesign was really a physical "patch" to prevent the bypass, but, thats why the wafer breaker tool exists. It allows you to still use the bypass tool even after the redesign, by punching a hole into the wafer.

[Oldfast]

I'm rather surprised more people haven't chimed in here.

I do think you'll eventually come to a functional tool that will work. However, as elbow mentioned,
the life span of your tool will depend on the material used. Even the original Peterson's bypass tool
made from "our highest quality steal" will only hold up to so much for so long.

I have one, and plan to purchase one more. Overall, it's a brilliantly designed tool that works wonders.
My personal experience with it is this though... by no means does hit for a 100%. I have not had enough
experience with it to give a percentage on how often it does work. But if I had to say, it's certainly well
over half the time. For example, you could sit down with 27 American 1100's (which I've done. lol) and
you're bound to run into at least a handful of them that you just can't seem to penetrate. Why exactly
this is, I'm not sure yet, and have not taken the time to try n' figure it out... but I will eventually.

In short; as you work through your prototypes, and continue to test-n-tweek, be sure to have a fair test group
of locks. Hopefully this will elimintate the possiblility of you frivolously working away on one that just happens
to be one of those 'lemon locks'... all the while thinking that your tool just isn't quite right yet.

On a sidenote: my experience with Peterson's Silver Bullet bypass set for laminated Masters has been similar
in regards to the success/failure rate. Again, overall great product. If I can find a suitable metal, I'd like to
replicate them just to have a second set. They're worth having.

Tools like these must wedge their way between elements with some fairly tight tolerances.
It's a good idea to get them as smooth as possible... and some lube certainly can't hurt.
I like to apply a small amount of tri-flow to the tips, then wipe them down.

[mech]

i saw a friend use a dimple pick tool from the southord dimple pick set [the type which is just a handle and a single pick all in one, not the changable part) and works a dream.. try it.

[Alaphablue]

Sometimes it's just a matter of working the tool in enough to round off the sharp edge on the brass plug end .