Micrometric Precision Key Machine

[MrWizard]

zoom spout oiler is real good turbine oil that gets in there pretty good you can get it at homedepot.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/DIAL-4-oz-Evaporative-Cooler-Zoom-Spout-Oil-5714/100128593

Zoom oil also make Rustbuster that generally will loosen anything but has a smell you won't want to be using in the house. I never used liquid wrench but it is worth a try I suppose. Just Google penetrating oil for a few hours see what you find.

Maybe the pulley was tightened not on flat areas as mentioned in that link and it spun around making sets screw burred up groove that has it frozen on there even more than normal. Look down the set screw holes see what you can see if anything put the penetrating oil in the set screw holes and on both sides of the shaft let it soak for a long while then smack it around some and re oil it again. Try to get it to turn a little.

[Papa Gleb]

So I took put a rubber hammer to the shaft and the only things that moved was one bearing. Now this was done without any oil as I didnt have a chance to run to the store yesterday but I will get some today and try your advise.

Looking into the set screw holes and I do see some disfigurement plus I also see some disfigurement on the side of the pulley parallel to the screw holes so it appears someone did tighten it but not aligned right and either with force moved it to the align position or the machine did so itself.

I will add penetrating oil all over the thing and leave it over night and will add a few sprays here and there throughout the evening.

[Papa Gleb]

Ok so good news. I was able to slide the shaft over one bearing. There are no flat spots on this shaft and it was not truly seized. Wizard called it as the pulley was burred into the shaft. Someone hammered the shaft but had not loosened the set screws resulting in burring the shaft a good inch on both sizes. Good thing the burs are on the part of the shaft that is out so its not scratching with the bearings. I tried to take the entire shaft out to remove the burrs BUT the pulley would not budge as it got to the end of the shaft and I did not want to hammer too hard for fear of breaking the aluminum body. Best part is that I can put a new belt and have a working machine. I am also planing to make a base / cover box that can easily be converted into a storage box then back into a working key machine bench. Picture to come once I find time to do it lol. I'm also looking into the motor controller.

If anyone does know of any reason why the pulley is not come off the shaft, please let me know. The created burr on the shaft ends a good inch or half inch before the end of the shaft so that is not the cause. I also though to heat the pulley but it was already getting late. The heat would be the best solution I think.

[MrWizard]

If you can get a new belt on it I would leave well enough alone and be happy it works. The pulley itself can also be distorted and have raised burrs and scratches from the harder metal shaft being driven in and out. If you still want to keep driving on the shaft do not use the the machine base as the anvil try to support just the pulley with something to sit on both edges so you don't break the allow base. Clean up the burrs you see so it won't be as hard to replace the belt the next time. Detail the machine to look nice and be happy with it. You will run into a better machine sometime and this one will eventually take a back seat.

[Papa Gleb]

Richard, thank much for all of the advise. I really appreciated it. Ideally I would love to take the shaft fully out, fix the burs, clean everything and give it a fresh paint job but f that. Im just gonna put a new belt and be happy with it as it. Ill post pics once I get it all back together. If, of course, I run into spinning issues when back together then ill take it off and fix the burs but I dont anticipate that being an issue as the burs are between the body bears.

[MrWizard]

Just masking tape off the shaft and bearings and go ahead and paint it.
That would work that same that is what I would do if that shaft is not going to come off.
Don't change the color much and any place that misses the new paint won't be noticed much.

[escapenrv]

Several years ago I bought one at a flea market for $4. It had never been used but the belt was dry rotted. It had been part of a mail order locksmith course so the seller said.
I tried sever belts and found one that would work but would stretch at speed. Doesn't look good but it works. I don't have the info about the belt with me as I am on the road in my RV.
I had to lube mine up good and run it for awhile so it would loosed up and run well. The only problem I had was setting the guide correctly so it would dup a key correctly.
I just thought that I did not look at your photo but the photo of the unit with the speed control. I will check and see if you have the same one I have or not.
Enjoy your new "toy". I bet you enjoy it....
Steve

[escapenrv]

Yep PG, mine is the same.
Steve

[Papa Gleb]

I ordered a belt for the ilco and should be here early next week. Cant wait to make my first key

Also, I again last night tried to take the entire shaft of as those burrs wouldn't let my mind sit straight but was faced with a different problem. The control key gauge has this little metallic piece that aligned with the screw that hold it. It appear to be pressed in but I'm not sure. Does anyone know how to take it our, would I be able to put it back in or should I not f**k with that? This machine was made so that everything can be disassembled for servicing which means the entire shaft is able to be removed and since we already know to remove it you need to move the shaft left (if facing the back of the machine) then this little metal piece is also able to be removed. Any thoughts, idea or experiences?

[Papa Gleb]

Wizard, can you direct me to the control you installed? I really dont have knowledge in this field so searching blind. How much do these things run anyways?

Bitbuster, any more info on that foot pedal installation? any pictures?

[MrWizard]

You can get these many places. Get one already made you can use it on all your hand tools just plug it in. I built mine way back when there was noting over the counter I could buy. You can build your own but just easier to buy one made now. I don't know how reliable the one from Harbor Freight is but if it doesn't work take it back. If you think you might want to use it on many of your power tools get a better one.

http://www.harborfreight.com/router-speed-control-43060.html

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Variable-Speed-Controller-Electric-Motor-AC-Control-for-Tools-/191411530490

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Router-Variable-Speed-Controller-Electric-Motor-AC-Control-Rheostat-for-Tools-/271498496732

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/ac-motor-speed-control

Richard

[jones]

I just loosen the set screws and get a small piece of wood, or doll rod and give a couple of light taps with a rubber mallet. I doubt you could bend anything, those machines are pretty sturdy

[Papa Gleb]

Hey gents, I just a replacement belt which is for the ilco mini mite and it's lots smaller than the belt that was on the machine originally. Now I understand the stretch factor over time but the new belt is a bit more than half the size of the old. Is that normal? Is the belt supposed to be stretched over and between the pulleys?

[jones]

See the biggest pulley the belt rides on? Loosen the two set screws holding that pulley to the drive spindle. Now tap out the spindle and release the pulley & the old belt.
Place the new belt around the big pulley and press the spindle back through it's center. Tighten the set screws and you are done. Good idea to lubricate the two bushings
the drive spindle sits in before use.

[Papa Gleb]

Jones I think you skipped the entire thread lol. I already got to that part and my current issue is the belt size. Is a new belt supposed to be super tight? Am I supposed to pull/stretch it over the pulleys or not? Thanks