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I need to remove and install new plugs on some cabinets. I don't have a Timberline D500KY change key. I do have the blanks that fit and would like to cut my own if anyone has the bitting? I don't often work on cabinet locks and a co-worker made his own change key last time. I'm not sure, but I believed the shoulders
were filed back 1 space so it would go deeper into the lock? 133TA is one of the codes on the face of the lock I need to remove. Thank you.

that sounds right. I file back the shoulders.

Gordon

Not sure if it's OK to 'borrow' the picture & post it directly here, but the first picture of this ebay auction should help.

The auction is for a bunch of cylinders with keys & the change key. The change key is shown in sufficient detail that you should be able to sight read the bitting to make one yourself without too much difficulty.

https://ebay.com/itm/10-CompX-Timberline-Removable-LOCK-PLUGS-Keys-and-Change-Tool-Polished-Nickel-/401045398887/

EDIT : there is a much better picture of the key here https://officekeys.ca/product/timberline-tta-series-core-removal-key/

Hope that helps.

Thanks again. I should be able to get close enough by eye then fine tune by impression.

looking at this core its a snap fit - so once picked and rotated to 180 degrees just try giving it a good pull

think the core removal key acts as a pull key.... only ACTS to grip core REMOVAL TOOL

cuts either 21212 or 31313 space 1 .137 3 .323 5 .509 and on the cut depths 2 .228 or 3 .208

standard removal keys are usually a blank cut that bit longer - removing a bit from shoulder etc

So as to get to the retaining wafer holding lock core in the housing - not on this lock - snap fit me thinks

BLANK 1043J IL11 SILCA HF1R

cheers

Snap fit, yes.
31313 worked.
1043J operating key blank.
Pull key uses the master wafer side so I believe I cut mine on a 1041T( I think?), I'll try to get a photo tomorrow.

Excellent work - Sweet

Had to have one - think it may work on this blank till I get the correct KEY instock crossed ref : JMA CHI 12D