KEYING A LOCKED PADLOCK FROM SCRATCH.

[awol70]

cool.. does yours have the stainless keypins?
(i am guessing not, with a radical bitting like yours.)
the decoder comes with the brinks housekey padlock,along with a small pinning kit.
i find this lock much more challenging W/O security pins...
(the stainless ones are a real ßIT¢# to pick.)

Actually it did have 5 stainless steel key pins, but I have repinned it more than a hundred times. Why do you find the stainless pins harder to pick? I havn't ever really noticed a difference other than they are a little slippery for a round tipped pick.

So, a brinks padlock? I don't know where to find one like that retail, but I'll keep an eye out. Ebay is bound to turn up something. Got my eye on a nice yale shrouded with the rekeyable Y1 cylinder. Makes sense they would give you the depth card with a padlock you could master key to your front door lock.

If I repinn a lock and I think I might not be able to pick it easily, lots of security drivers or just in case I jam a spring whipping on it with a rake out of frustration for example. I usually do it to a factory key I already have to save the trouble of cutting a new key. Also, good practice for key bitings straight from the factory. I probably have a hundred keys, non of them have 0 cuts, and I have never seen a factory 0 cut. The only 0 pins I have are from master keyed pin stacks I get from second hand locks on occasion. I know you didn't ask, but seeing the card made me think about it.

-Tooly

i am not really sure what makes the stainless pins harder to pick, but on a difficulty scale from one to ten, with regular brass schlage pins being a five, i would say the stainless ones are a 7 or 8.(with no securities)
if the lock carries security pins, it doesnt matter...
also i find all the top-end hi-sec locks,such as lockwood,carry stainless pins.
i know they are a measure against drilling attacks,and perhaps the tolerances can be tweaked
tighter?
i know when i take a stainless pinstack and hold the pins stacked in my fingers, the shearline is nearly invisible,and so it feels when picking.
not so with the softer,brass pins....
that is definitely part of it....the hardness/density of the metals.

[Wozzlock]

So I cut my first ever key for a keyless Master 6321 someone gave me. (took me three days to pick open the bugger!) It was hard to get the key in the keyway at first and the plug turns but very stiff (think these lock have a stiff turn anyway?), but it opens the lock! Pretty pleased with my first attempt!

Thanks for the vids and this thread Wiz!

[awol70]

So I cut my first ever key for a keyless Master 6321 someone gave me. (took me three days to pick open the bugger!) It was hard to get the key in the keyway at first and the plug turns but very stiff (think these lock have a stiff turn anyway?), but it opens the lock! Pretty pleased with my first attempt!

Thanks for the vids and this thread Wiz!

awesome !
great job!
hey if its really stiff turning, just turn the key back and forth 5 or six times,hard.
Then take the key out and look for small divots,or "impressions" in the key,created in your shallow cuts by the tip of the keypins.
lightly and carefully file these marks away,and your key will work smooth,like buttah.

[Wozzlock]

Here's another. I couldn't find a blank key to fit, so I split some copper tube, used another key as a template and there you go. Works ok considering it has no key warding.

Wish I had some more re-keyable locks to do now lol:

[awol70]

Here's another. I couldn't find a blank key to fit, so I split some copper tube, used another key as a template and there you go. Works ok considering it has no key warding.

Wish I had some more re-keyable locks to do now lol:

damn! hella nice job.
i am impressed.=)

[Wozzlock]

Thanks mate, couldn't have done it without your help!

[Rytanfan93]

Sweet little decoder. Back in the day it was a pair of vice-grip pliers and looking for the shiny spots on the blank for an sc1 keyway and MANUAL grinding- without disassembly. Well done. Rytan also had a handle on key blank stamping when you finally got it right. Then we realized, hey we can make a bump key and disassemble it and code it. But, I wish all impressions were as easy as a coat of candle wax on a lever tumbler:)

The filing of the key is functional, but your ramps and root of the key could be alittle cleaner.

Get your depth cut down, then run the file right through the cut to get your ramps at even 45degrees, and use the very tip of the file to widen out the root of the cut so it's flat. That gives your pin more area to sit on the key and will adjust for any minor spacing issues.

Also makes it look like a machine cut key. Have a play with it if you've got blanks on hand, you'll love the feeling of being able to cut a machine-look key with a file.

[Spinster]

great stuff!

[aarpazthelockpicker]

well since we are talking about pinning a lock here is my stuff.


CLICK ON THE PICTURE TO MAKE IT BIGGER SO YOU CAN READ THE POST ITS


NOT FOR TRADE

[awol70]

well since we are talking about pinning a lock here is my stuff.


CLICK ON THE PICTURE TO MAKE IT BIGGER SO YOU CAN READ THE POST ITS


NOT FOR TRADE

OH YOU LUCKY BASTARD!!!!! man i would love to have a repinning kit like that...
even JUST the american one...where can i find these?

[aarpazthelockpicker]

Well u can search for them on google and they range from 30.00$ up to 350.00$ for the huge ones and eBay is a good place to look.oh and I have some spools that are quite weard I will post an reply with the pic as soon as I can. Ps: repinning icores are a pain in the ass

[awol70]

Well u can search for them on google and they range from 30.00$ up to 350.00$ for the huge ones and eBay is a good place to look.oh and I have some spools that are quite weard I will post an reply with the pic as soon as I can. Ps: repinning icores are a pain in the ass

WOW not cheap...
and yeah..could you imagine trying to repin a best w/o the pinning block?
now THAT would be a pain...

[aarpazthelockpicker]

ya thank god for that pinning block. oh and do you have any techniques for picking best?

and i attached a pic of that weard spool have u ever seen one

[clodester]

Fantastic tutorial BTW, really cool. I gotta get me one of those decoders, come to think of it i think i got one free with something....ANYWAY back to the point.

I am being a bit retarded here (i would say blond, but i have dark hair). But are you re-keying it with the pins it came with, just in a different order? or are you actually picking out new bottom pins?

And could someone point me in the direction of a tutorial for repining top pins? added more/less securities, customizing your own locks? I have attempted something similar once...
1) I took out a yale x5 "unpickable" door lock and made such a botch of it, i lost most of my springs, and one or two top pins....So i turned it into a beginners/advanced lock, by only putting back in like 3 out of 6 pins, only with spools (as i was learning how to pick those at the time).....the repining was not as elegant as this

anyway since that beginners mistake and botch up, i haven't had the balls to try again really, too busy trying to crack my icore and getting my head around picking locks with multiple sheerlines

But yeah, very nice thanks!