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This safe with an unknown combination show up inline today and I offered to crack it. http://winnipeg.kijiji.ca/c-buy-and-sel ... Z493922015 .I know I am not an uber-noob in the manipulation department but I will consider myself one in this instance because I have 2 things going against me.
#1 - every JJ Taylor I have seen has been 4 wheels and I have never worked on a 4 wheel
#2 - I have never worked on a JJ Taylor before.

Stay tuned.....and don't be shy to post any tips...

I''ve never been 'four-wheelin', nor do I have any experience with vintage/antique safes....
so I obviously have no tips to give, lol. But I will certainly stay tuned for updates

Great to see ya back around!

I've done just a bit of work on a JJ taylor. Never opened it, but I thought mine was a three wheel. I have a safe contact who has a jj taylor safe. He says his is a 3 wheel lock as well, but it's a size smaller.

The only "tip" I may have is if you have to mark the RCP in the blank area of the dial, then don't use a utility knife like I did. It cut into that soft metal pretty deep. A spot of gum or duct tape would be a much better idea. Haha.

Good luck with the four pack!
LC

Some are 3 wheels some are 4. Some are direct entry while others are bolts.
Put pressure on the handle, see it a wheel drags, then it's direct entry.
If it is direct entry, the manipulation method is different, if it's a bolt, it manipulates just like any other.
Don't be fooled thinking that these old combs were crudely made, I have found several antique locks that would
make a modern machinist turn red. Some of those have very close tolerances.

M.

I've been around....just been keeping an eye on stuff....Ive been in the process of moving....don't worry I still love you all...

I can't seem to get a feel on this JJ Taylor....all my methods that work on s&g and LA guard don't work on the JJ Taylor.... Anyone got any tips?

If you press down on the handle, does it feel like it binds the dial? As in a direct entry?
If it doesn't bind the dial, It uses a S and G comb with a roller bolt and can be very difficult to manipulate. Very close tolerances of the wheel pack, and, a differently shaped drive wheel makes you feel 4 contact points, it gives too many clues, combine that with a light gravity drop fence and as often found on old JJ Taylors, a stiff dial, and you got a real challenge. Adding the auditory sence with a Lock Amp aids in "feeling" the drop zone too. What is the number on the handle? I want to check the fabrication date and it's features in my original JJ Taylor catalog. Might give a better idea of what you are dealing with. If all else fails, I can give you a few drill points and their methods.

I just opened 2 JJ's in the last week. One manipulated, one drilled.

M.

Its definitely a group 2 with contact points..I get exact same reading on all wheels giving no clues...the only thing I haven't tried is putting a stethoscope on it to get better readings...the safe is in a garage and there were too many mosquitoes....gonna give it another try in a week or so....

Mosquitoes...LOL! Yeah, kinda hard to concentrate while these blood suckers are eating you alive...
It hasn't been too bad here this summer, so far...
Try the stethoscope, hopefully it'll help, but, they can be really hard, harder than 6730's.
I wish you success.

M.

Nice! Yet another case of "they just don't make em' like they use to". lol

I've always been envious & impressed with your experiences and accomplishments.
Wish you had more time to share them actually!... but I'm sure you work A LOT.

Ahhh! Shit. LOL

A few gut shots of the JJ Taylor, my latest "victim".
It might help to visualize it better?

http://s1155.photobucket.com/user/Altashot/media/JJ%20Taylor%20guts/DSC02263_zps1ce2f344.jpg.html?sort=6&o=0

Full story and more pictures coming soon...

M.

Thanks for the pictures Altashot, very interesting and useful.

I've never seen that lock in person, but as I understand it from your pictures, only the usual 2 contact points are useful.
The cam is not completely cut away in the back part of the big groove, so it should prevent the fence from dropping in. Is this right?

Cheers

VERY interesting to see that M. Thanks! Really nice lock porn. I love it!

I didn't know what you meant earlier when you said 4 CP's.... but it's obvious now.

Femurat, you understood it perfectly.

The only useful contact points are indeed 2 and 3. 1 and 4 only create confusion...

The cases of these old locks were cast from a master mould, so, each lock had the same foot print to fit on any safe which was made for it, but, the innards wont necessarily fit another lock. They were all hand fitted, therefore, they each have their own "personality"

M.

Thanks for the pics! I see exactly what I have to look for now....thanks...