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Lauren's Antique Padlock Restoration

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Lauren

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Posts: 360

Joined: Mon Aug 27, 2012 10:29 pm

Location: United States

Post Wed Jan 06, 2016 5:41 pm

Re: Lauren's Antique Padlock Restoration

Day 3: Finished barrel>Made from solid bar stock, aluminum/bronze.

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Specs: (inches) barrel thickness=.050, barrel diameter=.330, barrel hole diameter=15/64 drill, total bit width= .480
Important bit cuts: 1= shackle bolt, 2=guard lever for shackle bolt, 3=shackle lever.(Notice bit cuts 1 and 2 are equal in depth. If bit cut 2 is not cut deep enough, the key will open the padlock, but the key will not rotate 360 degrees clockwise.)

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RAILROAD SWITCH PADLOCK 1966: AT & SF, MADE BY SLAYMAKER.

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MBI

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Site Owner

Posts: 1545

Joined: Thu Apr 03, 2008 9:25 pm

Location: Utah, USA

Post Wed Jan 06, 2016 8:37 pm

Re: Lauren's Antique Padlock Restoration

Whoa. I really like that one.
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Lauren

Active Member

Posts: 360

Joined: Mon Aug 27, 2012 10:29 pm

Location: United States

Post Wed Jan 13, 2016 9:22 pm

Re: Lauren's Antique Padlock Restoration

Well, my latest barrel key (drill press made from stainless steel bar stock) was intended for a railroad lock similar to the one shown below, but the lock was stolen yesterday by the postal service. So for now, I have a rather cool looking key blank. Circa 1960's, SLAYMAKER produced railroad padlocks with keys that switched from bronze cast to cheap steel ones. The two steel keys shown are originals, but I really don't care for the quality. The diamond shaped bow was apparently SLAYMAKER's hallmark design. I decided to follow the YALE bow design, and yes, SLAYMAKER used the design too. I'll just have to wait for another padlock to become available before my key is cut.

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Last edited by Lauren on Thu Jan 14, 2016 5:41 am, edited 1 time in total.
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MBI

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Site Owner

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Joined: Thu Apr 03, 2008 9:25 pm

Location: Utah, USA

Post Wed Jan 13, 2016 10:56 pm

Re: Lauren's Antique Padlock Restoration

Lauren wrote:Well, my latest barrel key (drill press made from stainless steel bar stock) was intended for a railroad lock similar to the one shown below, but the lock was stolen yesterday by the postal service...


This seems to be a recurring problem. I've lost locks several times over the years with packages ripped open, either accidentally or intentionally, and always through the mail system. I haven't lost any locks through USPS or FedEx Ground. Then today on this forum, another victim of misfortune:
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=11200
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jeffmoss26

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Sargent Mossberg
Sargent Mossberg

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Joined: Sun Apr 18, 2010 8:21 pm

Location: Cleveland, OH

Post Thu Jan 14, 2016 7:30 am

Re: Lauren's Antique Padlock Restoration

I've seen UPS and FedEx do their share of damage too...
femurat: They're called restricted for a reason...
Innerpicked: The more keys you carry, the more important you look
GWiens2001: Great video! Learned a lot about what fun can be had with a forklift and a chainsaw.
pmaxey83: but i first have to submit the proper forms for a new hobby to my wife
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tpark

Contributor
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Posts: 240

Joined: Fri Nov 13, 2015 4:17 pm

Location: Alberta, Canada

Post Thu Jan 14, 2016 9:51 pm

Re: Lauren's Antique Padlock Restoration

Lauren wrote:Well, my latest barrel key (drill press made from stainless steel bar stock) was intended for a railroad lock similar to the one shown below, but the lock was stolen yesterday by the postal service. So for now, I have a rather cool looking key blank. Circa 1960's, SLAYMAKER produced railroad padlocks with keys that switched from bronze cast to cheap steel ones. The two steel keys shown are originals, but I really don't care for the quality. The diamond shaped bow was apparently SLAYMAKER's hallmark design. I decided to follow the YALE bow design, and yes, SLAYMAKER used the design too. I'll just have to wait for another padlock to become available before my key is cut.

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The keys that you make are true works of art. The craftsmanship of these works is fitting for the time when locks were sculpture as well as functional.

Sorry to hear that your lock was another victim of the post office.

--Ted
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Lauren

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Posts: 360

Joined: Mon Aug 27, 2012 10:29 pm

Location: United States

Post Sun Jan 17, 2016 10:38 am

Re: Lauren's Antique Padlock Restoration

I purchased three key-less EAGLE padlocks the other day (almost identical), two have the reverse "9" keyway and the other is a straight blade. Eagle is one of my favorite padlock manufacturers. I rarely run into broken locks and the quality is usually very good from a mechanical perspective. I noticed EAGLE placed a second raised ward at the bottom of the inside lock case beside the raised ring (as seen in one of my pictures). This little extra ward was cast at different locations. My barrel key will only turn in one lock, but not the other. The non-working padlock has the second ward right up against the bottom ward ring. The primary obstacle was machining a key with a keyway smaller than a dime while trying to maintain precision. The barrel thickness of this key is only .030 inch. I was able to get the bow of the key perfectly vertical with the center of the lock. My key was made from solid cold rolled .250 inch thick steel. I can only image the key will rust naturally with time.

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SHACKLE STAMPED: 40L51 EAGLE LOCK CO. TERRYVILLE, CONN. U.S.A.

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spuds

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Location: New Jersey

Post Sun Jan 17, 2016 12:58 pm

Re: Lauren's Antique Padlock Restoration

@Lauren whats the Thickness of the blue spring steel plate you use for your blanks if you don't mine telling Thanks




Lauren wrote:I always wondered just how good these modern key blanks are for CHAMPION style 6 lever padlocks. Compared to my blanks, which I make from blue spring steel plate, these modern keys are somewhat disappointing. Notice in the second picture how alot of the plating has flaked off. I have experienced this problem with other Ilco blanks as well. The blanks look great until you cut them. The key I cut works great, but the width had to be filed down just to fit the keyway. So much for maintaining factory tolerences "key blank manufacturer guy". These blanks are merely convenient and are a softer steel designed for key machines (also explains why the key cut so fast). At least with my blanks, I can polish them to no end, and I don't have to worry about cheap chrome plating, because there is none with mine (LOL). It takes alot of work, but I think I will stick to my homemade blanks.

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Even Duct tape can't fix stupid But it can muffle the sound ! ;-)
Jim
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Lauren

Active Member

Posts: 360

Joined: Mon Aug 27, 2012 10:29 pm

Location: United States

Post Sun Jan 17, 2016 4:05 pm

Re: Lauren's Antique Padlock Restoration

Most original CHAMPION keys measure .050 thick. I normally make my keys from scraper blades (a blue spring steel material); however, I get a lot of waste and I have to hand sand each key to .050 inch. I've located a source that looks much more promising from McMaster-Carr item # 9075k354. This material is a sheet and may be the best stuff yet. I would love it if someone would try this material. Do not cut this stuff on a key machine. You'll ruin the cutter. I can tell you that blue spring steel is far better then modern day ILCO blanks. The keys I make are harder and have a glass like sound when dropped. Drilling the 7/16" hole is the hardest part. Most holes are stamped out when produced commercially.
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tpark

Contributor
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Posts: 240

Joined: Fri Nov 13, 2015 4:17 pm

Location: Alberta, Canada

Post Mon Jan 18, 2016 10:40 am

Re: Lauren's Antique Padlock Restoration

Lauren wrote:Most original CHAMPION keys measure .050 thick. I normally make my keys from scraper blades (a blue spring steel material); however, I get a lot of waste and I have to hand sand each key to .050 inch. I've located a source that looks much more promising from McMaster-Carr item # 9075k354. This material is a sheet and may be the best stuff yet. I would love it if someone would try this material. Do not cut this stuff on a key machine. You'll ruin the cutter. I can tell you that blue spring steel is far better then modern day ILCO blanks. The keys I make are harder and have a glass like sound when dropped. Drilling the 7/16" hole is the hardest part. Most holes are stamped out when produced commercially.


I got some STAR blanks that were a bit too thick and not quite wide enough, so I made them closer to the right shape using torch and hammer and anvil. I then annealed the end, cut a working key, then hardened/tempered the key.It was a bit of work to make the key smooth and shiny again though. I really like how the keys you make look - hopefully your book describes your finishing process. I use a dremel tool with polishing compound, then I Brasso to put a final shine on it.

I bought an "Empire" lock, but sadly the springs in the lock are shot - I dissected it, and after cleaning it out using CLR lime/rust removal solution I checked the springs on the levers. The lock looks like it had been subjected to great heat, so the springs had softened to the point where they no longer work. I think brass can only be made springy by work hardening, so if I were to repair that lock, I'd have to get new spring wires for it.

Thanks for sharing pictures of your work - it's inspiring because it shows what can be done!
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spuds

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Familiar Face

Posts: 205

Joined: Sun Jun 14, 2015 11:04 am

Location: New Jersey

Post Mon Jan 18, 2016 3:57 pm

Re: Lauren's Antique Padlock Restoration

Thanks Lauren I'll give McMaster-Carr a look see!!


Lauren wrote:Most original CHAMPION keys measure .050 thick. I normally make my keys from scraper blades (a blue spring steel material); however, I get a lot of waste and I have to hand sand each key to .050 inch. I've located a source that looks much more promising from McMaster-Carr item # 9075k354. This material is a sheet and may be the best stuff yet. I would love it if someone would try this material. Do not cut this stuff on a key machine. You'll ruin the cutter. I can tell you that blue spring steel is far better then modern day ILCO blanks. The keys I make are harder and have a glass like sound when dropped. Drilling the 7/16" hole is the hardest part. Most holes are stamped out when produced commercially.
Even Duct tape can't fix stupid But it can muffle the sound ! ;-)
Jim
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Lauren

Active Member

Posts: 360

Joined: Mon Aug 27, 2012 10:29 pm

Location: United States

Post Mon Jan 18, 2016 4:02 pm

Re: Lauren's Antique Padlock Restoration

I buff my keys on a 8" bench buffing wheel. My keys would not look so mirror-like without it. Tpark are looking to buy my book? Spuds, let me know if that material works out. I've been on the fence about buying some. You have to be careful not to buy the roll stuff. You want the sheet stock. The blue film really scores nicely for making traces or even your own drawn keys.
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spuds

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Joined: Sun Jun 14, 2015 11:04 am

Location: New Jersey

Post Mon Jan 18, 2016 4:16 pm

Re: Lauren's Antique Padlock Restoration

Thanks Again LoL for the heads up I'll make sure its sheet stock I did a quick look with your number found it.. Will let you know how i make out.


Lauren wrote:I buff my keys on a 8" bench buffing wheel. My keys would not look so mirror-like without it. Tpark are looking to buy my book? Spuds, let me know if that material works out. I've been on the fence about buying some. You have to be careful not to buy the roll stuff. You want the sheet stock. The blue film really scores nicely for making traces or even your own drawn keys.
Even Duct tape can't fix stupid But it can muffle the sound ! ;-)
Jim
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tpark

Contributor
Contributor

Posts: 240

Joined: Fri Nov 13, 2015 4:17 pm

Location: Alberta, Canada

Post Mon Jan 18, 2016 6:05 pm

Re: Lauren's Antique Padlock Restoration

Lauren wrote:I buff my keys on a 8" bench buffing wheel. My keys would not look so mirror-like without it. Tpark are looking to buy my book? Spuds, let me know if that material works out. I've been on the fence about buying some. You have to be careful not to buy the roll stuff. You want the sheet stock. The blue film really scores nicely for making traces or even your own drawn keys.


I bought it using the blurb link. The finish that you get is surely worth the time and effort in getting a bench buffer if a perfect shine is required. If you're transferring a pattern, I wonder if a photoresist or iron on transfer would work?
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Lauren

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Posts: 360

Joined: Mon Aug 27, 2012 10:29 pm

Location: United States

Post Mon Jan 18, 2016 6:56 pm

Re: Lauren's Antique Padlock Restoration

I'm not familar with that process tpark, but I would be interested in seeing the result. I always enjoyed drafting in high school, so using a scribe and a dial calipar works nicely for me.
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