.:: Keypicking :: Anything And Everything For Locksmiths, Hobbyist Lock Pickers, Locksport, Lock Picking, lockpicks, cutaways and Security. Simply The Best Lockpicking Forum Around!

Posted: **Fri Jan 22, 2016 9:10 am**

Made a couple of keys for Macgng. The locks are Supra Titan, and are made only for fire departments. Won't go into details on the lock, other than to say it is a disc detainer and the keys are a b#### to make. To make it clear - neither the key to my lock nor the ones I made for macgng have the same bitting the lock originally had. Swapped the discs around before making the keys so as to not risk the actual key code for a fire department. None of the locks I made keys for were from either my local area or macgng's local area. They were eBay purchases.

The lock looks like this. (The lock in the pic is mine, not Mac's).

The key looks like this (the key is for my lock so as to not show Mac's bitting)

And the keys I made work (though one is a little fiddly) in Mac's locks (these are his)

Gordon

Posted: **Fri Jan 22, 2016 9:52 am**

Nice work Gordon. What type of material did you use for them?

Posted: **Fri Jan 22, 2016 10:23 am**

Thanks, Doogs. Used 1/2" round steel stock from Home Depot.

Gordon

Posted: **Fri Jan 22, 2016 10:26 am**

Someone get this man a mill!!!!! I could only imagine what he'd spit out >:-D

Posted: **Fri Jan 22, 2016 3:18 pm**

Curious about the dimensional relationships.

Would it be possible to use a cut down segment of appropriate ID/OD tubing and then sleeve it onto a turned down portion of round stock to act as the handle? Seems like it could require less stock removal.

Please don't misunderstand me. I'm not taking anything away from your work, you've done an awesome job. I'm merely pondering an alternate approach to this problem.

Posted: **Fri Jan 22, 2016 5:11 pm**

Very nice! thanks man. can't wait

Posted: **Fri Jan 22, 2016 5:38 pm**

Rumball Solutions wrote:Curious about the dimensional relationships.

Would it be possible to use a cut down segment of appropriate ID/OD tubing and then sleeve it onto a turned down portion of round stock to act as the handle? Seems like it could require less stock removal.

Please don't misunderstand me. I'm not taking anything away from your work, you've done an awesome job. I'm merely pondering an alternate approach to this problem.

Rumball,

No problem. It is by sharing ideas that we reach conclusions that would otherwise be beyond us. Always feel free to offer suggestions and insights, or question my methods. Plenty of places to bury a body here in the desert. :twisted:

While your idea has merit for some applications, it would not work on this lock because of the sharp goose-neck of the shoulder where the bow and the key blade meet. 90 degree angles, depth of .079" (2 mm), but the material thickness at the shoulder is only .030" (.76mm). So there is a section that rises up that is only .76mm thick (and 1.75mm tall), forms a 90 degree turn outwards, extends outward with a thickness of .76mm (for 2mm) then forms another 90 degree turn and forms the main part of the key blade with a thickness of about 1mm.

So the point is that the material is too thin (yet needs strength) for joining sleeves. My first attempts at a key for my box a while back were using brass and aluminum stock. They could not maintain rigidity when cut that thin. So steel was the only option, and it needed to be one piece for strength.

Great idea. Nice thinking outside the box.

Gordon

Posted: **Fri Jan 22, 2016 8:01 pm**

Niiiice!

Posted: **Fri Jan 22, 2016 8:23 pm**

Very cool! Love your work, interesting lock too. Nice

Posted: **Fri Jan 22, 2016 10:13 pm**

Very nice! Man..I miss workin with metals down in my lab..you guys are an inspiration as usual. Sidenote: don't but a wireless dremel >:|

Posted: **Fri Jan 22, 2016 10:19 pm**

rerun12 wrote:Very nice! Man..I miss workin with metals down in my lab..you guys are an inspiration as usual. Sidenote: don't but a wireless dremel >:|

One was given to me as a gift a while back. Have to agree with you... the wired is so much better. Made the key with a wired one.

Gordon

Posted: **Sat Jan 23, 2016 10:00 am**

I've had a wireless dremal for a long time but I randomly picked up a wired one the other day to try and get a project going, will be getting the Dremal workstation to fit it too as well. Glad to know my purchase wasn't a waste! I honestly prefer wired stuff, it's always got more umph behind it and lasts longer. Like wired vs battery drills.

Posted: **Sat Jan 23, 2016 2:49 pm**

Thanks Gordon, your reply helped me to understand the constraints better. Agreed, based on the dimensions stated, stock removal as you did is best solution.

Don't you sometimes wish you had a mini steel foundry! It would be so much easier to rough cast and finish things. I'm exploring the idea of some brass and aluminium casting on small scale at the moment.

As for rotary tools, wired is the way to go for sure. I have two wired dremels because it saves changing bits sometimes. As for cordless, they're often quite anemic. The exception being the Milwaukee M12 fuel cordless rotary tool. I bought one for fitting strikes, adjusting door preps and cutting padlock shackles when in the field. It handles like a dremel, just with significantly more grunt! Definitely not a quiet tool though.

Posted: **Sat Jan 23, 2016 3:36 pm**

Rumball Solutions wrote:Thanks Gordon, your reply helped me to understand the constraints better. Agreed, based on the dimensions stated, stock removal as you did is best solution.

Don't you sometimes wish you had a mini steel foundry! It would be so much easier to rough cast and finish things. I'm exploring the idea of some brass and aluminium casting on small scale at the moment.

As for rotary tools, wired is the way to go for sure. I have two wired dremels because it saves changing bits sometimes. As for cordless, they're often quite anemic. The exception being the Milwaukee M12 fuel cordless rotary tool. I bought one for fitting strikes, adjusting door preps and cutting padlock shackles when in the field. It handles like a dremel, just with significantly more grunt! Definitely not a quiet tool though.

I have a small foundry in the back yard. My son and I melt down aluminum from bad parts at work (I am a mechanic by trade) and do sand casting.

Gordon

Posted: **Wed Jan 27, 2016 6:53 pm**

here are some more pictures of the Supra Titan Lock Boxes:

Box my locks came out of:

Realtor Style Box, Looks vintage, pretty sure they don't make these anymore:

Only picture on google i could find of a key (and not a good pic

) :

.:: Keypicking :: Anything And Everything For Locksmiths, Hobbyist Lock Pickers, Locksport, Lock Picking, lockpicks, cutaways and Security. Simply The Best Lockpicking Forum Around!

Keys made for macgng's Supra Titan

Keys made for macgng's Supra Titan

Re: Keys made for macgng's Supra Titan

Re: Keys made for macgng's Supra Titan

Re: Keys made for macgng's Supra Titan

Re: Keys made for macgng's Supra Titan

Re: Keys made for macgng's Supra Titan

Re: Keys made for macgng's Supra Titan

Re: Keys made for macgng's Supra Titan

Re: Keys made for macgng's Supra Titan

Re: Keys made for macgng's Supra Titan

Re: Keys made for macgng's Supra Titan

Re: Keys made for macgng's Supra Titan

Re: Keys made for macgng's Supra Titan

Re: Keys made for macgng's Supra Titan

Re: Keys made for macgng's Supra Titan