Sat Sep 26, 2020 8:47 am
Tokoz Tech 300
Although on the first sight this looks like a normal pin tumbler cylinder, it is much more interesting than that...
It is actually something between pin tumbler and wafer lock.
The lock itself is very different from most other locks - its body seems to be cast, and the core doesn't slide to the front, but back (which might make pulling a bit harder, depending on the lock body material). Also the gutting is somewhat different - you have to punch out the two pins on the bottom (punch from the side with the little dimple), then remove the lock body, but be careful not to drop the little double cross thingy as it holds the springs and pins/wafers...
The pins/wafers seem stamped from an steel sheet and the key part holds a ball bearing, that comes in contact with the key. This not only causes less wear and tear on the lock and key, but also allows for some ridiculous bitting (not to mention the pick might slide off the pin easily). Also note the notches on the top of the drivers 2 and 4 - they act like a spool pins.
The core itself seem to be ready for passive side pins - there are both holes for them and the groove in the lock body; the lock I have didn't contain them. There are also two notches on the top of the core, of which the one closer to the center of the lock was fitted with a steel part - not sure if it is supposed work as an anti-drill measure, or if it is something else...
As far as the picking is concerned, the feel of the lock is also quite different - the center part is spring loaded, which dampens the core movement a bit. Obviously a very deep hooks seem to be needed otherwise you risk oversetting the high cut pins, but the keyway is restricted enough to make you switch to a shallower one whenever possible. Also the pin side of the core is curved enough to make tensioning there a challenge...
It is actually something between pin tumbler and wafer lock.
The lock itself is very different from most other locks - its body seems to be cast, and the core doesn't slide to the front, but back (which might make pulling a bit harder, depending on the lock body material). Also the gutting is somewhat different - you have to punch out the two pins on the bottom (punch from the side with the little dimple), then remove the lock body, but be careful not to drop the little double cross thingy as it holds the springs and pins/wafers...
The pins/wafers seem stamped from an steel sheet and the key part holds a ball bearing, that comes in contact with the key. This not only causes less wear and tear on the lock and key, but also allows for some ridiculous bitting (not to mention the pick might slide off the pin easily). Also note the notches on the top of the drivers 2 and 4 - they act like a spool pins.
The core itself seem to be ready for passive side pins - there are both holes for them and the groove in the lock body; the lock I have didn't contain them. There are also two notches on the top of the core, of which the one closer to the center of the lock was fitted with a steel part - not sure if it is supposed work as an anti-drill measure, or if it is something else...
As far as the picking is concerned, the feel of the lock is also quite different - the center part is spring loaded, which dampens the core movement a bit. Obviously a very deep hooks seem to be needed otherwise you risk oversetting the high cut pins, but the keyway is restricted enough to make you switch to a shallower one whenever possible. Also the pin side of the core is curved enough to make tensioning there a challenge...
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