my new 6730 s&g

[uturn]

Just got a 6730 S&G and need info on mounting. I got it off ebay has spy proof ring and keyed dial. I saw something here about making a mount where they gave dimension . the add on ebay says will fit up to 1 3/4 inch door. this sounds small to me . I am trying to avoid cutting the spindle . I am dying to give it a spin . My first spring lever fence!! Ive been stuck with direct entry lock only for few months .. Thanks

[GWiens2001]

Make a piece of wood 1 3/4" thick. Drill a hole for the spindle. Take the back off your lock, and place the lock body on the wood with the center of the hole you drilled centered in the drive cam. Mark the locations of the lock mounting holes. (Those are the four holes in the corners). Remove the lock body, and drill holes slightly smaller than your mounting screws. Mount your lock body. Turn the wood over. Place your dial ring, bushing, and dial onto the wood. Thread the spindle of the dial into the cam of the lock so it is fairly straight. Center the dial ring and dial on the wood without allowing it to lean one way or the other. Mark the location of the dial ring. Remove the dial, and install screws in the dial ring. Leave them just slightly more than touching, but not snug. Re-install the dial. Try spinning the dial. If it turns smoothly, remove it and tighten the dial ring screws. If it does not turn smoothly, tap the dial ring with a soft-faced hammer from the side opposite the binding. Move it around until the dial spins freely. Remove the dial and tighten the dial ring screws. Reinstall your dial. Start spinning!

Good luck,

Gordon

[uturn]

Thanks!I am going to mount it Friday! will let ya know how it goes.

[CPT1911]

Hi uturn! Glad to hear you are going to start on the group 2 locks. Did you get good at opening the direct entry ones? I would love to see a post that explains the process you settled on for direct entry because I have not began working with them yet.

Gordon gave you an excellent rundown on how to mount the lock. I use the relatively in expensive red oak boards from home depot. 1x6 (true dimension 3/4 by 5 1/2 in) is good for the mounting board and 1x4 (true dimension 3/4 by 3 1/2 in) is good for the base. I settled on 7 3/4 inches long horizontally. I also like using clear "brushing" lacquer for finishing because I am always eager to get started and it dries in 20 mins or so.

Regarding not cutting the spindle--I struggled with that as well and finally decided (unless it is an old vintage lock) to cut the damn spindle on all of them. You'll get a much better result and a nice fit. Honestly, what is the liklihood that you are going to some day need to pull your lock off your stand and mount it on a door? If you make a nice stand and mount your lock, it becomes a neat little work of art--you won't want to pull it apart anyway. And, if you ever want to mount it on something else, you can buy a brand new LaGard or S&G dial and dial ring for like $20 bucks. $30-40 if you get a spy proof.

Here is a really good video on lock mounting, cutting spindle, etc. that helped me:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mjmLG8tNfWQ

Here are some pics of the stands I build. I do a dado cut for connecting to the base and super glue them (like I said, I want to start spinnin'), but nails/screws would work fine too.

Saw.JPG

Lacquer.JPG

Finishing.JPG

Complete.JPG

[GWiens2001]

Nice collection of safe locks you have mounted there, cpt1911.

Gordon

[CPT1911]

Thank you, Sir! The truth is that it has grown SIGNIFICANTLY since then. I'll post pics soon.

[flywheel]

Nice work and collection CPT. But I prefer to professionally mount my locks. This one is my new bathroom door. Coincidentally, I am becoming quite proficient at manipulating the locks open in a real hurry...

Take care!

[GWiens2001]

Gordon

[Oldfast]

Great stuff guys. I had a heck of a time with alignment when mounting my first dial
Good advice from Gordon on that. Also, the vid Trevor linked I was helpful for me too.

And look at Trevor! LOL Pumpin' out like a fuckin' assembly line! HahaaaAAA! That's great.
And I KNOW you have alot more than that. Can't wait to see the entire collection sometime.

Just went to get the dimensions on mine. They varied slightly until I settled on what I like:
The face & base are 6 3/4 wide. Faces are 5 1/2 tall.... the bases 4 1/4 deep.
I use screws, but it can be touchy keeping the two pieces aligned if you do
it that way. Sometimes requires some sanding afterwards.

For finsihing: I like Trevors clear wood coat. Other options... spray paint, stain, linseed oil.

[uturn]

Thank you all. Yeah was leaning toward just cutting spindle to size . Looks like it would be best. Nice pictures.I think I will model my mount off of those. I will do a fresh manipulation on my direct entry safe and take better notes so I can post it. Have a few graphs laying around also. Is a sentry with tubular key and handle. False gates on driver all same size and 're locker on tubular. There is a easy bypass also but I won't post that in open.Thanks again will post pics when I get spinning.

[CPT1911]

I will do a fresh manipulation on my direct entry safe and take better notes so I can post it.

Man, that would be great, u-turn! I feel like a fake because I have been slaying group 2 locks but a crappy sentry DE might as well be an X-09. I don't know where to begin! Is there a way to pull and mount the locks on the Sentry safes? I think one of the reasons I haven't gotten into it is that I don't want to be tripping over a stack of little office safes! Not as tidy as our mounted group 2's!

There is a easy bypass also but I won't post that in open.

So I am interested to hear more about your philosophy on this. I debated long and hard about whether there is a 'line' on what I should and shouldn't post. It started when I began working toward opening Group 2M locks and realized I was in the realm of "higher security" locks intended to protect jewelry stores and the like. I finally decided that virtually any 'line' I refused to cross on sharing info would be arbitrary, and that most of the important lines had already long since been crossed. After all, we are posting in painstaking detail on how to open a group 2 lock in a matter of minutes. That's basically every gun safe in the country with rare exceptions. Metal boxes FULL of weapons! Couldn't more harm come from that then a bypass on 'lil old office safe?? Maybe yes, maybe no...mainly because I have no control over what people decide to keep in their safes! The site is full of info on bypassing, raking, or SPPing padlocks. There goes your shed. There is tons of instruction and video on raking open Kwikset door locks, etc. That's like every front door in this country, lol! I am not asking this to challenge you or be disrespectful--on the contrary, it is a personal decision! I guess I was just surprised and curious as to why you drew your line there? I suppose the truth is that I am just being selfish in wanting to learn about the bypass you discovered. Maybe a PM if you would prefer not to share in the open?

[femurat]

You'll be happy with the 6730 uturn, I guarantee it! It's one of the best first locks you can get. You'll learn a lot from it.

Cheers

[uturn]

Thanks again all. Happy to hear that 6730 is good first lock. little curious as to the .5 tolerance. The only reason i mentioned not posting the bypass for the sentry was i wasnt sure of rules here yet. Dont think you wanna bother trying to mount the lock used on the sentry. But it would be kinda cool to try. Would basically be the size of the door.. Ill get some stuff together asap internet is down at home so may be few days..

[uturn]

got it mounted and it is working good. may adjust dial ring a bit. I will start a new post with graph results when i have a chance to manipulate it. Thanks