How do each of you do a wheel isolation test?

[rohare]

This forum is the first place I've seen anyone talk about doing a "wheel isolation" test as opposed to a High/Low test for matching up an indication to a wheel. I get the basic concept, but what steps would each of you who use this technique actually go through in order to apply it? When I tried deriving a technique from the descriptions I have read, I found myself essentially doing one half of a High/Low. I’m pretty sure that’s not what is meant by “wheel isolation”. Any hints? Thanks much!

[CPT1911]

Looking forward to seeing where this thread goes as I cannot consistently determine the correct wheel using the hi/low test. My contact region typically does not vary by more than 1/10 between the tests.

[magician59]

I often isolate the first wheel by parking the others on a predetermined number, and taking my readings around the first wheel only. When this works, and I get a good indication, it's brilliant. Otherwise, if I'm reading all wheels right and get a good indication, (say,45) I'll Park Wheel 1 on 45 right, and the other two Left, at least 10 numbers away, and re take my reading. If it changes (I now know wheel 1 isn't the indicating wheel); Then I dial L55 - R45 -L55 to see if wheel 2 is the indicating wheel. If not, then I confirm it's wheel 3 by dialing 1 and 2 Left to 55, and 3 Right to 45.

The direction of dialing isn't critical. But CONSISTENCY is. If I find an indication dialing in a specific direction, I will test all the wheels in isolation, going in that direction.

[rohare]

Otherwise, if I'm reading all wheels right and get a good indication, (say,45) I'll Park Wheel 1 on 45 right, and the other two Left, at least 10 numbers away, and re take my reading. If it changes (I now know wheel 1 isn't the indicating wheel); Then I dial L55 - R45 -L55 to see if wheel 2 is the indicating wheel. If not, then I confirm it's wheel 3 by dialing 1 and 2 Left to 55, and 3 Right to 45.

Yep, that's what I ended up doing too. The reason I though this was not correct is because it's basically one half of a High/Low test. I wish I could find the post again, but the "wheel isolation" technique that was mentioned was supposed to be an alternative to a high/low test.

I got onto this tangent becase I did an AWL run around my lock and found two indications. Doing the above test on each number gives the nutty result that BOTH indications belong to wheel 3. That can't be right, but that's what I get... I was really hoping I was just doing it wrong.