Hall's Safe help

[FTWLawman]

Hi all. I've read through a number of post here, one in particular caught my attention, by Cooper and he talks about a train depot safe he is trying to open. I say that because it most closely resembles what I am working with. I have the monstrous Hall's Safe & Lock unit from an old Coca-Cola bottling plant. It is a 130 number dial. As you can see from the photo, I bought a professional manipulation kit to try and help after a few attempts with home-made type devices. After spending the last four days attempting to locate a hint of a drop in the dials...I still have nothing.

I believe this is a four number combo. It is DE, as I feel gates about every 13 numbers. I read in Cooper's post that it is likely a Hall's Straight lock. I am not getting any indication. I've tried running AWL and taking a reading at each gate and then done AWR to take a reading. Problem is, I can find where a gate seems to drop lower than the others, but then the next few gates after that do the same thing. Then, if I reverse and try to measure the gates in the other direction the readings are totally different.

Anyone have pictures of the interior of this lock? Any other advise on this one? I am able to work on it about 4 days a month as I travel.

Thanks,
JD

[AL usher69]

I'm not positive, but I think you should hook up your gadget to the handle. I don't see what your hook to in your picture

[MartinHewitt]

It is hooked up to the right handle, but I think the rubber band is on the wrong side. I'll have to do some research.

The rubber band should be right. From what I found there can be three or four wheels, but with your safe I think the four wheels are a more theoretical possibility. Esp. as you have problems you should do a wheel count to find out what you are fighting against. The driver should have one true and nine false gates. Normally these are easy to identify. This true gate of the driver is the fourth number in your combination. Could you locate the ten gates?

[FTWLawman]

This is a double door safe. The left handle moves, but does not interact with the dial. The right handle, which the red plate is mounted to turn CCW to bind with the gates on the dials. You can just barely make out the magnetic rod stuck to the bottom of the safe that the small bungee cords run down to.
Interested in the "device" I'm using? Here is a link to the manufactures video...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DQbZ_No ... e=youtu.be

JD

[FTWLawman]

It is hooked up to the right handle, but I think the rubber band is on the wrong side. I'll have to do some research.

Turning the right handle CW, the dial doesn't bind. Turning it CCW binds the wheels on the false gates of the dial.

[mastersmith]

If there are "false" gates on the drive wheel, one of the gates is usually a different width than the "false" gates. If you determine which one is different you will have your "real" gate. And then, a starting point. Good luck!

[L4R3L2]

I've never been able to find a price for that kit, but I'd imagine it's quite an investment for a one time deal. You're getting good advise so far. You can run the wheels at any gate indication if you have to.

[FTWLawman]

Thanks for the help so far. As for the kit, I have access to a locksmith account, it ran me $250. A fraction of the $2600 a local shop wanted to drill it and the interior door. I believe the interior door has a Hall's Premier, but the combo is set to all the same numbers I think (and pray). It's worth trying. So far I have not been able to differentiate any gate from another. When one give a large needle movement, the next three or four do the same before the needle moves back up. Then, if I run the wheels the opposite direction, the gates indicate totally different. I've tried running wheels 2 and 3 using se3veral of the gates that indicated larger movements but didn't get any good indications from the dials.

[L4R3L2]

I have my own kit that works well, but that one is pretty versatile and looks to be well made, and the price sounds reasonable. I may have to look into getting one.

Your local shop owner should be horse whipped. Even with repairs it shouldn't run anywhere near that much, especially for direct entry locks.

When you move the dial within a gate with pressure on the handle, do you feel dragging, or is the movement free within the confines of the gate?

[FTWLawman]

I have my own kit that works well, but that one is pretty versatile and looks to be well made, and the price sounds reasonable. I may have to look into getting one.

Your local shop owner should be horse whipped. Even with repairs it shouldn't run anywhere near that much, especially for direct entry locks.

When you move the dial within a gate with pressure on the handle, do you feel dragging, or is the movement free within the confines of the gate?

I feel the same about the price the local guy is asking to open such a gem.

As for the gate and drag, I can't feel it scrapping the bottom of a gate on any of the positions.

[L4R3L2]

As for the gate and drag, I can't feel it scrapping the bottom of a gate on any of the positions.

In that case, you can use any of the gates (whether real or false) to take readings on the other wheels.

[jharveee]

https://youtu.be/9gdEuD9akRA
I enjoy watching this video and hope you may be inspired by it. Looking forward to seeing more photos of your safe.(inside).