What model would this S&G group 2 lock be
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I just got this safe a gardall fire safe. It has this S&G combo lock a group 2 and I haven't found any information on it. It turns great and will be trying this one soon
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Re: What model would this S&G group 2 lock be
Probably an R6709.
In case you wonder ... Martin Hewitt is a fictional detective in stories by Arthur Morrison:
Martin Hewitt, Investigator Chronicles of Martin Hewitt
Martin Hewitt, Investigator Chronicles of Martin Hewitt
Re: What model would this S&G group 2 lock be
Yes, R6709.
Re: What model would this S&G group 2 lock be
Thanks guys I tried to find the model and had no luck. Now to manipulating to see what I come up with. Thanks guys.
Re: What model would this S&G group 2 lock be
Edit: see post below..........
Last edited by L4R3L2 on Fri Jan 17, 2020 7:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: What model would this S&G group 2 lock be
I'll post my adventures of this new find. I've just played with it so far.
Re: What model would this S&G group 2 lock be
O.K. I just manipped mine again today. What I had previously noted as being a quick and easy manipulation gave me some trouble today (same lock, same combo). Here is something to know about these.
This is one of those locks that does not have a detent on the bolt. It is beneficial to apply opening pressure on the safe's boltwork handle (after turning the dial CCW) throughout the manipulation to keep the lock bolt extended. This is especially important on this model due to the sharp hooks on the lever's nose and the drive cam's "left" contact point.
What happens if the lever is allowed to move freely is that if the lever is far enough into the wheel pack (such as when a gate is in line with the fence), the sharp nose of the lever can catch the sharp left contact point of the drive cam during during CW rotation, retracting the lever but then coming to a stop as the top of the lever hits the lever stop of the case. The lever stop is what forces the fence into the wheel pack during unlocking, but as not all of the gates are aligned, the lever gets stuck between the lever stop and the left contact point of the cam until you rotate the dial back. This may not be the case with all 6709s, but it is with mine, and all the one's I've seen have the sharp lever nose and drive cam contact point. Regardless, your contact readings will be more consistent with pressure on the handle.
With opening pressure on the safe's lever, manipulation should pan out as normal.
This is one of those locks that does not have a detent on the bolt. It is beneficial to apply opening pressure on the safe's boltwork handle (after turning the dial CCW) throughout the manipulation to keep the lock bolt extended. This is especially important on this model due to the sharp hooks on the lever's nose and the drive cam's "left" contact point.
What happens if the lever is allowed to move freely is that if the lever is far enough into the wheel pack (such as when a gate is in line with the fence), the sharp nose of the lever can catch the sharp left contact point of the drive cam during during CW rotation, retracting the lever but then coming to a stop as the top of the lever hits the lever stop of the case. The lever stop is what forces the fence into the wheel pack during unlocking, but as not all of the gates are aligned, the lever gets stuck between the lever stop and the left contact point of the cam until you rotate the dial back. This may not be the case with all 6709s, but it is with mine, and all the one's I've seen have the sharp lever nose and drive cam contact point. Regardless, your contact readings will be more consistent with pressure on the handle.
With opening pressure on the safe's lever, manipulation should pan out as normal.
Re: What model would this S&G group 2 lock be
Usually I can feel the contact point pretty easy and even hear a click . I'm not getting much of anything except a click when I go by the left contact point. I'm thinking it's because it's on the floor and I'm laying down in front of it. I'm so use to having the safe locks in front of me while I'm sitting so comfortable. I'll put it on my table and give it a go. Thanks for the information
Re: What model would this S&G group 2 lock be
Having a safe to be opened on the floor in the corner of the room under a table is not unusual.
In case you wonder ... Martin Hewitt is a fictional detective in stories by Arthur Morrison:
Martin Hewitt, Investigator Chronicles of Martin Hewitt
Martin Hewitt, Investigator Chronicles of Martin Hewitt
Re: What model would this S&G group 2 lock be
It is for me untill now
Re: What model would this S&G group 2 lock be
L4R3L2 wrote:O.K. I just manipped mine again today. What I had previously noted as being a quick and easy manipulation gave me some trouble today (same lock, same combo). Here is something to know about these.
This is one of those locks that does not have a detent on the bolt. It is beneficial to apply opening pressure on the safe's boltwork handle (after turning the dial CCW) throughout the manipulation to keep the lock bolt extended. This is especially important on this model due to the sharp hooks on the lever's nose and the drive cam's "left" contact point.
What happens if the lever is allowed to move freely is that if the lever is far enough into the wheel pack (such as when a gate is in line with the fence), the sharp nose of the lever can catch the sharp left contact point of the drive cam during during CW rotation, retracting the lever but then coming to a stop as the top of the lever hits the lever stop of the case. The lever stop is what forces the fence into the wheel pack during unlocking, but as not all of the gates are aligned, the lever gets stuck between the lever stop and the left contact point of the cam until you rotate the dial back. This may not be the case with all 6709s, but it is with mine, and all the one's I've seen have the sharp lever nose and drive cam contact point. Regardless, your contact readings will be more consistent with pressure on the handle.
With opening pressure on the safe's lever, manipulation should pan out as normal.
You are right about feeling the left contact point grab and hearing it. It would seem to me like a flaw the way it so obvious. I'm glad not all safes were that easy nothing would be safe. Thank you ..
Re: What model would this S&G group 2 lock be
After my big mouth I haven't been able to feel the left contact point like I did before. It seems to have vanished. I turn the handle like I did and it just doesn't seem to grab like it did.
Re: What model would this S&G group 2 lock be
AL usher69 wrote:After my big mouth I haven't been able to feel the left contact point like I did before. It seems to have vanished. I turn the handle like I did and it just doesn't seem to grab like it did.
That's what you want. You don't want the left CP to grab; It's not helpful.
Re: What model would this S&G group 2 lock be
L4R3L2 wrote:AL usher69 wrote:After my big mouth I haven't been able to feel the left contact point like I did before. It seems to have vanished. I turn the handle like I did and it just doesn't seem to grab like it did.
That's what you want. You don't want the left CP to grab; It's not helpful.
Ok it did seem to screw with getting consistency in getting the correct numbers. It would grab and then let go giving me different numbers. If that make sense thanks.
Re: What model would this S&G group 2 lock be
MartinHewitt wrote:Probably an R6709.
I have Google s g r6709 search and search and haven't found any information on a r6709 out there. I'm replacing it with my s g 6730 I had to order a new dial for 6730 cause the shaft was to short do to cutting it to be mounted. Well anyway any info on r6709 will be much appreciated. Thanks
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