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Lets tear into an old Diebold safe

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Oldfast

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OldddffAASSTT the Spin Master Extraordinaire and American Lock Slayer
OldddffAASSTT the Spin Master Extraordinaire and American Lock Slayer

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Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2011 3:16 pm

Location: Michigan

Post Sat Jul 13, 2019 10:06 pm

Re: Lets tear into an old Diebold safe

Again, some interesting stuff here, and some great ingenuity.

Funny, cuz even with the pics and story line, I'm sure I probably haven't a clue as to the amount of time and effort you really put into each step. The results are always so inspiring though. Nothing like seeing new life in such an old safe.
" Enjoy the journey AS MUCH as the destination."
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00247

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Familiar Face

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Location: Wisconsin

Post Thu Jul 18, 2019 10:13 pm

Re: Lets tear into an old Diebold safe

Along with some distractions, I wasn't rushing the bodywork as I knew it would be some time before the parts would come back from the Chrome Shop. Usually it takes at least 2 months. Imagine my surprise when UPS unexpectedly showed up with the parts in 2 weeks.

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What does it cost to have parts plated? Here is a run down. These parts are chrome plated vs nickle as I was not concerned about an original look. The shine of chrome and the durability of the finish was more important.

The dial and ring set were $125
4 button hinge finials $45
4 bearing races $40
Handle $85

I also had a handle for another safe (at the top in the picture) done which consisted of:

Handle body $45
Large handle bolt/shaft and collar $30
Handle bolt $20

So these parts plus a bolt for a motorcycle, tax, and shipping both ways, brings the total to just shy of $450. It might seem like a lot but it is a far cry from doing a fancy bank safe. :spinning:

With these parts in hand it will be time to give myself a boot in the ass and maybe get this safe done in record time.

Body work and paint coming up next.
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It is time... stand up for a constitutional America. Without it, we have shed blood in vain.
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femurat

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Post Fri Jul 19, 2019 8:24 am

Re: Lets tear into an old Diebold safe

WOW they look impressive now!

Thanks for sharing what you paid. I still feel dumb when I recall I paid 15 bucks to chrome a small jewelry box key. Now I feel relieved because it looks a correct price.

Cheers :)
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L4R3L2

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Post Fri Jul 19, 2019 3:02 pm

Re: Lets tear into an old Diebold safe

Just FYI, decorative chrome IS essentially bright nickel, with a very, very thin flash of chrome to prevent oxidation. The nickel is finished first as it would normally be, then the chrome is added on top of it. At least that is how we did it "back in the day". The parts look beautiful. Do you plan to repaint the dial?
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00247

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Location: Wisconsin

Post Sat Aug 03, 2019 3:07 am

Re: Lets tear into an old Diebold safe

L4R3L2 wrote:Just FYI, decorative chrome IS essentially bright nickel, with a very, very thin flash of chrome to prevent oxidation.


Yes, I am fully aware of that. Something readers of these threads may not realize is there is a difference in the appearance of polished nickel and chrome. Polished nickel has a bit of a warmer, softer, slightly yellowed look to it. When the chrome layer is added (which is essentially clear) it gives a shinier, somewhat colder, but brilliant look to it. Chrome is much harder and resistant to corrosion or tarnishing vs nickel which will dull over time. When I have redone my bank safes I wanted to duplicate the original look so I went with nickel plating (chrome didn't become widely used until the 1930's) and a single stage paint to maintain the original look despite the fact that the body work, and paint are brought up to modern automotive standards. After all, if they had the technology to do it that way back in the day, surely they would have. This safe is strictly for show so it gets the chrome finish and a basecoat/clearcoat paint to maximize visual impact.

After the initial coat of epoxy primer, it is sanded and a layer of filler is added to the areas that need it. The sheet metal sides and back were in pretty good shape other than two small dents. A skim coat of filler was necessary on the top, door, inner door jamb, and the front and rear angles that surround the body.

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It actually takes a couple layers of filler with the majority of it sanded off. I can't stress enough the importance of a good base for the next steps. If the metalwork and filler are not right the following steps will be a challenge and will most likely result in sub par results. Now everybody has different standards. Some are happy with a brushed paint job. I am very anal about smooth correct surfaces in paint and do all I can to achieve them. After the filler, two coats of urethane primer are added. This primer is block sanded out till most of the primer is on the ground. Any flaws are dealt with and more urethane primer is added. This coat is wet sanded and finally the surface is ready for paint.

Here you can see the first coat of primer blocked out. Some filler and bare steel shows through. There may be a few pinholes or sand scratches left. They are taken care of before the next coat of primer.

IMG_2835.JPG


The next coat of primer is applied.

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After this coat of primer is wet sanded with 400/600 grit, the surface is checked with solvent which duplicates what the final finish will look like. While it may look like the final finish, this is primer with a wet coat of prep cleaner. As I said, the finish paint will only look as good as what is under it.

IMG_2870.JPG


Once satisfied, it is time for the base coat of black which has a dull finish. After a short flash time the clear coat gloss is added. The clear will be wet sanded with 2000 grit paper. The sanded finish will then be gold leafed for stripes and lettering. Pinstriping will be added and then it will all be cleared again.

Fresh clear over the black basecoat.

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Here the fresh clear is wet sanded with 2000 grit.

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While I wait and wait for the mask to be cut for the artwork on the door, I will refinish the inside woodwork. Stay tuned.
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It is time... stand up for a constitutional America. Without it, we have shed blood in vain.
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Oldfast

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OldddffAASSTT the Spin Master Extraordinaire and American Lock Slayer
OldddffAASSTT the Spin Master Extraordinaire and American Lock Slayer

Posts: 4378

Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2011 3:16 pm

Location: Michigan

Post Sat Aug 03, 2019 10:49 pm

Re: Lets tear into an old Diebold safe

No matter how many times I see it, lol... it's always such a treat to see your work take shape. The perfect flatness and shine. Geez.

And maybe a rather silly question that never occurred to me: What sort of work (if any) will go into the wheels this thing sets on?
" Enjoy the journey AS MUCH as the destination."
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00247

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Location: Wisconsin

Post Sun Aug 04, 2019 1:44 am

Re: Lets tear into an old Diebold safe

Oldfast wrote: What sort of work (if any) will go into the wheels this thing sets on?


Oh man, you had it hit me low with that question! :cry: LOL. I am ashamed to say not much. Wheels on safes are usually poor quality castings. Rougher than a corn cob and no way to really work on them. The axles are peened in like a rivet so taking the wheels out is not realistic venture. Because they are not a focal point of the safe, I normally paint them a satin black so they kind of disappear into the mass of the safe. That way when they get marked up from rolling they can be easily touched up. Hopefully the rest of the safe keeps the eyes of an onlooker from ever getting that low.

Think about it, whether your a boob man or an ass man, do you ever get down to looking at the feet? LOL

It is time... stand up for a constitutional America. Without it, we have shed blood in vain.
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Oldfast

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OldddffAASSTT the Spin Master Extraordinaire and American Lock Slayer
OldddffAASSTT the Spin Master Extraordinaire and American Lock Slayer

Posts: 4378

Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2011 3:16 pm

Location: Michigan

Post Sun Aug 04, 2019 5:15 am

Re: Lets tear into an old Diebold safe

00247 wrote:.....Think about it, whether your a boob man or an ass man, do you ever get down to looking at the feet? LOL

Too funny. And so true! Look how long it took me to even ask!

Reminds me of 'Shawshank Redemption', when Andy walks back to his cell wearing the Warden's shiny dress shoes.
" I mean, really, how often do you look at a man's shoes? " lol

You're right though; the material used and how they've been mounted limits the options on what you could do, even if you wanted.
" Enjoy the journey AS MUCH as the destination."
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