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I don't know how someone goes about obtaining ownership of a salvage safe, maybe others on the forum know?
If the safe left the factory without a combo, it was most likely set to 50. Then the Dealer may have set it for the buyer, or not?
It is a nice looking safe and worth having a locksmith help with the opening. According to your original post, you have had this safe sense Jun 18 2016. Maybe longer. This makes me believe there is nothing nefarious here. What about the mounting holes?

Yes. I had it since 2016. I didn't have time to work on it a lot. Locksmith want 800 dollars to drill.
I will flip tonight.

800.00
Wish I lived closer. I'd do it for fun.

Well may be I pay your airfare and a week vacation in Toronto if I cannot open it
Your are welcome to stay at my place and I will even be a tour guide

Well. I flipped it and holes are there. Looking through shows the lock is encased. See the picture attached

Also I may have triggered the relocker putting it up. How sensitive are they? I was flipping dolly up and it over powered me down. I

Oh well, never mind it looks empty!
Just joking. flipping over shouldn't set off the re-locker, normally. I don't remember the specification saying Glass re-locker. You would have to hit it hard enough to knock the back of the lock off(or almost). what are you using to photo inside? Most likely heard the shelves banging around. On e-bay you can buy a inspection camera for your smart phone that may fit inside your mounting holes. But, you are wanting to continue manipulation. When you find the combination and turn to the right and the handle wont turn, then you'll know the re-locker had fired.

I hope relocker did not fire. I will continue manipulation
I used my cell phone for the picture.

I don't think I can see the change hole because it is encased in that box

I saw a safe once that had an external relocker with a spring just short enough that inverting the safe would defeat it.

Get a mirror on a stick in there, there may also be a way to get the cover off, I can't tell from your picture but I've undone bolts/screws on inside covers before with long screwdrivers pressing on the side of loose bolts.
Sometimes a rolled up reflective plastic sheet has to be squeezed through but a little bit of mirror on the end of a rod should work on this one.

A local garage might lend you their borescope to use or you can buy a cheap flexible usb borsescopes from eBay for about £10, they are extreemly good for the money.

Any holes into a box can be extreemly helpful always try every trick through them before you go back to spinning.

Great ideas and suggestions.

In case you need to continue manipulation:

If you connect the points the graph is easier to grasp visually.

Your left contact point looks strange, because it has often greater variation than the right one which is for a normal lock extremely unlikely because of the form of drive cam and lever nose. So I would focus on the right one without completely ignoring the left one.

On your first AWL I find your right graph not really helpful. So the left one is only one which could contain valuable information. The range 87 to 16 is there better than the other part. 5, 40, 59 and 97 could indicate gates, but I doubt it. My guess is, that these peaks will not be there if you look again.

The W1/W2@R6, W3L graph shows indications at 5 (which is great, but very unlikely due to the forbidden zone) and 68 (which is not as good, but in a valid range). A general low area is around 5 to 15.

The W1/W2@R5, W3R graph shows indications at 30 and 60. (Conversion of 30 and 60 to normal left rotation would be 30.5 and 60.5) Low area from 89 to 5.

And finally the W1/W2R, W3@L68 graph. It is IMHO not really helpful. It shows that 68 is not a good position as you don't reach as good values as in the previous graphs.

I would redo the last graph with W3@L5. And if there is somewhere an indication of a gate read the contact points in steps of 1 or a little bit more. A real gate has a flat tip, maybe to numbers wide. And a more fine reading allows to better get the center of the gate. It is a real pain when you miss a gate by one or just a halve number. If there is an improvement with W1/W2R, W3@L5 then I would do W1/W2@Rx, W3L with a nice x.

Here is the graph with 1&2 at R60 and 3WL (steps are 2: 60 62 64 ... dialing left) I started at 60 so i do not disturb the wheel 1&2 and easier to feel contact area 4 to -14

Not sure what to make of it. 40 and 60 are showing up again. 41 to 46 LCP drops to 3.75

I tried just AWL @60 one reading and I am getting a very good indication but not certain it is W3. HiLo says so but who knows

The conversion WL vs WR is about 0.5 to 1 step tested at 50

I think I am going to do AWL with 1 step at a time and see. (redoing graph 1)

Now question to confirm : 1&2R@60 n 3WL starting at 60 means AWR 4 times right to 60 then Left to 60 stopping on it the second time to start graphing contact area 4-14 with right rotation then back left rotation to 62 to add 2 steps

I wanna make sure I am dialing correctly W3

I have a cutaway lock that I use when I'm unsure of the dialing sequence. I believe you have it correct.
4 times around right to 60. Stop.
Rotate Left 1 time around(this moves only the drive cam, no other wheels.) till you reach 60. stop.
Continue left and you feel wheel 3 pickup. Continue left to 62. Stop.
Rotate Right to Contact area, take readings.
Rotate left to 64. Back right to contact area, take readings
Rotate left to 66....