Mosler Group 1R - Manipulated!
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Not sure how interesting this particular lock is to manipulation, but I have found a method that is not only possible, but doesn't take all that much longer than a regular Group 2 manipulation. I'm probably more at a 2 hour range, but should be able to work it down to an hour if I practice more.
Here is my lock, I did mill out the top to get a good look on the inside while everything was together. This was really necessary, as the wheels are attached to the back plate, so with the back off it's not as easy to look at how things work like it would be on a S&G. You may notice the last pic I have an audio listening device, this may be helpful for some to listen taking readings, but I've found touch is more than enough.
https://imgur.com/a/caRK4
The basic idea that makes it work is a couple of factors:
There you have it! You only need to take RCP, or at least from what I can tell that's about all you can take, but it's all that's needed.
I'll be doing a video series on this lock most likely at some point, but I figured a quick write up was in order. I now have several blind manipulations under my belt, such that I'm reasonably sure this works very well on my lock. I bet it would work on most locks, though I could conceive that some locks just may not allow you to balance on that ball bearing (just before the accelerator spring clicks over). Maybe if they are very new, or if someone clever happened to grease up that area. OR it just might make manipulation harder, but not impossible.
Here is my lock, I did mill out the top to get a good look on the inside while everything was together. This was really necessary, as the wheels are attached to the back plate, so with the back off it's not as easy to look at how things work like it would be on a S&G. You may notice the last pic I have an audio listening device, this may be helpful for some to listen taking readings, but I've found touch is more than enough.
https://imgur.com/a/caRK4
The basic idea that makes it work is a couple of factors:
- First, the fence has a nice little bump over W3. This means that you will always feel wheel 3 first. It's a binary thing, you either don't feel anything inside the contact area, or you feel something, in which case you have found the gate on W3.
- The main manipulation works by first going into your contact area, then just before the spring mechanism flies out (around 9.75 on my lock), you can work the ball-bearing spring loaded clicky thing (bottom on pic 2) up onto a shelf on the cam
- If you do Step 2 correctly, you can back my lock to the 5-7 area and attempt to take a reading, often you'll hear a click and spring pressure will be gone from the main accelerator spring
- Also, if correct, when you move outside about 5-7, it will slip off that shelf and click (basically much earlier than it would if you were going normally which would click around 10)
- If you did not do Step 2 correctly, the spring will begin charging again and only click around the normal 10 (9.75 for me)
There you have it! You only need to take RCP, or at least from what I can tell that's about all you can take, but it's all that's needed.
I'll be doing a video series on this lock most likely at some point, but I figured a quick write up was in order. I now have several blind manipulations under my belt, such that I'm reasonably sure this works very well on my lock. I bet it would work on most locks, though I could conceive that some locks just may not allow you to balance on that ball bearing (just before the accelerator spring clicks over). Maybe if they are very new, or if someone clever happened to grease up that area. OR it just might make manipulation harder, but not impossible.