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Where the drop zone is there are no numbers below the mark (this lock has no forbidden zone). So it can't be read with this dial out of the box. There are two easy options to make it readable. The first is to put a sticker onto the cover and the second is to remove the cover and attach some pointers to the board. I choose the first way and made a sticker. it has 100 "numbers" and marks for halve numbers. With quarters the readability decreased. The dial in the photo is at the moment at the right contact point with w3@number, i.e. at "9" 3/8. With w3@number-3 it was at "9" 7/8. So it does not appear to be that difficult, but I am not sure how narrow the gates are. Have to check that. And before I really can start I need to make a change key.

(Yeah, the dial is not that well centered. It was once better. Maybe carrying it around shifted something. In any case it is still good enough to work with.)

Martin Hewitt

I'm sure this thread will be entertaining.

Good luck

Upon a closer look and one hour of dialing I think luck is required. AWL, AWR all nearly flat line. Just a slow up and down by overall 2 eighth. Strangely the is shifting of both contact points between AWL and AWR. I hope nothing went wrong setting the number with my borken change key. Also I need to get used to the scale on the dial ring.

Although I've not yet commented on your other thread (6630), I've been following along.
You've done some great work with it for sure! (which I'm still looking over and digesting).

This lock I'm sure will also prove to be just as interesting & informative.
Might we eventually see some 'gut shot' pictures from the backside?

Here is one photo open: https://www.koksa.org/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=17238
And here the backside of the back wheel: https://www.koksa.org/viewtopic.php?f=4 ... 8&p=191729
Will make more.

PS: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8gVVRCUaI-g