Safe Lock Mounting Specs

[tumbl3r]

Having repeatedly tried to make myself nice safe lock mounts (I just don't have the tools to do the precision drilling), I've given up and started working with a very kind machinist who is willing to design a really nice metal practice mount. Obviously we want to make these mounts as flexible and universal as possible, so I'm wondering if there are any locks for which the following layout would NOT work. From all the research I have done, it seems as if all safe lock and dial assemblies will work with these holes.

Also, beyond the layout of the holes, are there any other factors that I should be aware of? Basically, I'm interested in making sure we can accommodate as many locks as possible in one design.

Thanks for your help everyone!

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[Riyame]

Most safe locks now use that "universal" mount size but a lot of older ones did not. Most safe manufacturers have the specs within the installation manual so you can google those to see the differences.

Foreign locks can differ as well as modern vault locks which are bigger.

[tumbl3r]

Most safe locks now use that "universal" mount size but a lot of older ones did not. Most safe manufacturers have the specs within the installation manual so you can google those to see the differences.

Foreign locks can differ as well as modern vault locks which are bigger.

Thank you for your help! Do you know if any of the older locks or foreign locks have any kind of "standard" If not, it would probably not be worth accounting for them unless there were one or two that are widespread enough to justify it.

[Riyame]

Well, the normal safe lock mounts you can buy have a few different sets of mounting holes on them for various manufacturers. They even include a slot in the hole for the spindle so you can mount key locks to it as well. I am sure a more experienced person could chime in with how any current ones differ.

There was no universal standard back then but each manufacturer had their own specs for each lock. I actually have a few breakdown diagrams and blueprint diagrams with measurements for a bunch of the older S&G locks.

[Jaakko Fagerlund]

I have to ask, what is wrong with the stands already on sale that are injection molded plastic with etal inserts for the screw locations? It's not the price, as they cost around 17 something.

[tumbl3r]

Well, the normal safe lock mounts you can buy have a few different sets of mounting holes on them for various manufacturers. They even include a slot in the hole for the spindle so you can mount key locks to it as well. I am sure a more experienced person could chime in with how any current ones differ.

There was no universal standard back then but each manufacturer had their own specs for each lock. I actually have a few breakdown diagrams and blueprint diagrams with measurements for a bunch of the older S&G locks.

Thanks for the info man! I'll poke around and see if I can come up with something general enough to incorporate.

[tumbl3r]

I have to ask, what is wrong with the stands already on sale that are injection molded plastic with etal inserts for the screw locations? It's not the price, as they cost around 17 something.

That's a totally fair question. I actually bought some of them and they work perfectly fine. I guess what I don't like about them is just the fact that they are plastic and don't really feel "high quality". They deform when you crank down on the dial bolts, and don't really look nice for display. Functionally there is absolutely nothing wrong with them. It's really just their aesthetics.

[dmasters]

I have to ask, what is wrong with the stands already on sale that are injection molded plastic with etal inserts for the screw locations? It's not the price, as they cost around 17 something.

That's a totally fair question. I actually bought some of them and they work perfectly fine. I guess what I don't like about them is just the fact that they are plastic and don't really feel "high quality". They deform when you crank down on the dial bolts, and don't really look nice for display. Functionally there is absolutely nothing wrong with them. It's really just their aesthetics.

I have a few and I haven't had any issues with them. I agree with trying to make them by hand, I didn't have any luck either which is why I just ordered the plastic ones. You could always find yourself a hackerspace (or a buddy) with a 3D printer, laser cutter or CNC router --or combination thereof-- and make the stand of your dreams I'm slowly working towards adding fab capabilities to my little home-shop.

[tumbl3r]

I have a few and I haven't had any issues with them. I agree with trying to make them by hand, I didn't have any luck either which is why I just ordered the plastic ones. You could always find yourself a hackerspace (or a buddy) with a 3D printer, laser cutter or CNC router --or combination thereof-- and make the stand of your dreams I'm slowly working towards adding fab capabilities to my little home-shop.

I haven't really had any problems with them either. Honestly, they work fine, but I really want to have mounts for my locks that are made out of metal. Also, the person I'm working with is really cool and does beautiful work! I think it's worth it to support him and his business. I would LOVE to have fabrication in my shop! I would need to learn a lot though, as I have next to zero experience working with metal... Other than the welding that my dad taught me when I was younger.

[Jaakko Fagerlund]

If you want to make it from metal and in quantities, then it it best to design it to be made from either one piece steel that is punched and formed sheetmetal (6 mm or so), or laser/water cut from two pieces that are then welded together, or the best in terms of making much of them: make a permanent casting mold and have it cast from aluminum. These type of molds are dirt cheap to make

[tumbl3r]

If you want to make it from metal and in quantities, then it it best to design it to be made from either one piece steel that is punched and formed sheetmetal (6 mm or so), or laser/water cut from two pieces that are then welded together, or the best in terms of making much of them: make a permanent casting mold and have it cast from aluminum. These type of molds are dirt cheap to make

Those are good thoughts! Do you think it would be pretty easy to get a nice finish on cast aluminum? Right now I probably don't need them in large enough quantity to justify tooling up for anything like that, but who knows what the future will bring.

[Riyame]

There are nice steel ones with removable feet that used to be made. There are little slots in the bottom of the stand and the feet so they slide together.

[Jaakko Fagerlund]

If you want to make it from metal and in quantities, then it it best to design it to be made from either one piece steel that is punched and formed sheetmetal (6 mm or so), or laser/water cut from two pieces that are then welded together, or the best in terms of making much of them: make a permanent casting mold and have it cast from aluminum. These type of molds are dirt cheap to make

Those are good thoughts! Do you think it would be pretty easy to get a nice finish on cast aluminum? Right now I probably don't need them in large enough quantity to justify tooling up for anything like that, but who knows what the future will bring.

Permanent casting produces quite nice finish, especially if it is shot blasted and painted, but due to the mass of the aluminum I probably would like to machine at least the front of the stand flat, as the screw holes need machining anyway.