Chubb safe.....74, 25, 45, 16.....open!!!!!!!!!

[williamjcoates]

Hi all,
Some of you may know from my off and on posts that I have been wrestling with a chubb safe that I picked up in the locked position, no combo. This challenge was what introduced me to the world of lock manipulation and I admit wholeheartedly that I tried breaking off a run when I should have been learning how to crawl. Now i didn't defeat this bugger by manipulation unfortunately, but I did manage to do it without blowing it apart. I decided to drill a 3/8" hole through the back of the container level with the change key hole that is located on the inside panel of the front door. I then inserted a small camera which is actually a 5m long cable with a lighted camera on one end and a usb plug on the other end. I pluged the usb cable into my laptop and was able to view a live feed. I insert the cable far enough in so that I could view the combo change hole on the back of the lock. I aligned the wheels so that the square holes in each of the wheels lined up. As I moved each wheel into position I noted the position on the dial on the change combo slot which is marked on the left side of my dial. Once I had all four numbers I dialed the combo using the center slot and that's it....open safe. Happy wanne be safe cracker. I know it isn't as graceful as manipulating the lock open but I was very happy when I felt the tell tale click and the handle moved into the open position......Next question...does anyone have any idea what type of chubb safe this is......here are some inside pics..
http://imgur.com/a/xh8F0

[Riyame]

Nice job! So, what was in the boxes?

Looks almost exactly like a S&G 6500 vault lock http://s1143.photobucket.com/user/Riyame/library/Safe%20locks/Sargent%20Greenleaf%206535%20vault%20lock

[Altashot]

Nice open up!
Manipulating a 4 wheel is pretty hard.
drilling the back is pretty hard too, but the 4 wheels are easy to scope, damn good thing it didn't
have inner compartments. What's the serial number at the end of the locking bolt?

I made a long reach tool with a square shaft soldered at the end, once I have the wheel lined up, I insert the "change key",
change the comb to set the wheels on 50, remove the key and dial it open on 50. No need to retrieve the numbers and once opened,
I always change the comb to 50 anyhow, until it's serviced and put back to work.

M.

[williamjcoates]

Hi Guys,
Nice pics you have Riyame. Ya i believe it is a 6500 series S&G. I am going to remove it from the safe mount it and practice manipulation. I would leave it on the safe but the safe is located in my unheated garage. A bit chilly for that kind of work.

I looked where you mentioned Altashot and low and behold there it was......930536- 83. So any ideas what I have here? Is it possible that the number 83 pertains to year of manufacture?
Bill

And as for the boxes, one had small brass american express clips, and the other boxes had $100 and $50 AT & T long distance calling cards. probably not activated though...Around $45,000.00 worth if they were...lol

[Riyame]

Lol, never know until you try to use one.

[Oldfast]

Holy hell, that must have been a real thrill! Well done!!

I was also looking over the auto dialer you built. Really amazes me
some of the shit you guys are able to create! I wouldn't have a clue
where to even begin with something like that. Very cool.

[williamjcoates]

Hi Oldfast,
Thanks, and yes it was awesome. Not manipulated open but considering my limited experience I am happy just the same. I forgot to mention, dam lucky as well. The safe could have been filled with crap or had another compartment which would have sunk my boat. Jaakko fabricated the autodialer which is really cool. I made the rotary encoder attachment which measures point gap. Also with alot of input from Jaakko. Lol. I will be refining the operation of it and hope to demonstrate more of its use on here.

[oldlock]

I've made the observation before - you really, really, really do not want to try and learn to manipulate on a 4 wheel S&G vault lock.

Get a basic 3 wheel clone and start with that.

[williamjcoates]

Hi Oldlock,
Thanks for the advice. I took it up awhile ago. I have three other 6700 series locks mounted and some other 4 wheel locks as well.
Bill

[Malekal]

I wish I could find one of those for cheap! Good job!

[Altashot]

William, yes 83 is the year and from the serial number I might be able to get the model
although I think it's only the measurements. IE, if the safe is 36" tall and 20" wide, it would be model 3620 and add
ABP at the end. It means anti blow pipe. it's a jewelers safe rated 1 hour fire and is a TL30, class 3 or 4.

M.

[williamjcoates]

Hi Altashot,
Thanks for the info, I know that the outside dimensions of the safe are 42"High X 30"wide x 30" deep.
Inside compartment measurements are,
34" high, x 22"wide by 19" deep.
There is also a number on what looks like a punch proof relocker which is clearly evident in one of the photos I uploaded. 84035.
How would you determine whether it is a class 3 or 4?
Bill

[Altashot]

How thick are the door and walls?

I don't know what that number is, I've seen them before, I think it's just a part number.

Here's a picture from my collection. this safe is a Chubb, Mosler and Taylor from 1970.
Same number.



M.

[williamjcoates]

Hi Altashot,
The walls are approx 4" thick. The outer door skin is 4" thick. Mounted on the inside perimeter of the door is a 1" thick, 4" deep surround that houses the bolts. Looks damn close to the pic you posted. On my door though the cable relocker points up.

I also noticed another mounting hole about 6" below where the lock is located and also an access hole on the inside door cover that had a pop out plug. I am thinking that it could have been an option for a time lock accessory.
Bill

[Altashot]

Ok, Class 4, probably like this one.



M.