.:: Keypicking :: Anything And Everything For Locksmiths, Hobbyist Lock Pickers, Locksport, Lock Picking, lockpicks, cutaways and Security. Simply The Best Lockpicking Forum Around!
A Discussion Forum For Anything And Everything For Locksmiths, Hobbyist Lock Pickers, Locksport, Lock Picking, Lockpicks, cutaways, and security. Simply The Best Lockpicking Forum Around! http://keypicking.com/
What was for him "clean"? All paint of? Or most paint sanded of?
Re: Bad Ass Safe
Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2020 8:13 pm
by 00247
AL usher69 wrote:I just asked a bridge painter .
Sigh. That isn't the source that I would have gone to for painting advice. It may work initially with a low grade paint like Rustoleum, but I question how it will hold up. Joint compound does not have the proper adhesion properties and is a water based product that promotes rust on metal surfaces. The old safes (late 1800's to early 1900's) had a black filler material to fill defects which was also water based. That is why it is common for the old safes to have surface rust issues causing the filler and paint to fall off. Body filler would be the correct choice.
I started doing body work 45 years ago when I was 17 and did my share of hack jobs as I learned. Everyone has different needs and standards, in my opinion, there is no replacement for doing it right. It is tough for an average guy to go through proper procedures and the expense that comes with it. In order to get shiny black on an old safe to look like this takes hundreds of hours and many hundreds of dollars. Granted it is to the exteme, but I wouldn't put gold leaf (even the artificial stuff) and go through the expense of a pinstriper on any thing less. But again, everyone has different standards.
Re: Bad Ass Safe
Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2020 9:57 pm
by L4R3L2
As one who worked in the trades, I can tell you that drywall joint compound can rust nail heads before it dries. I hate to think what is happening to an iron or steel safe under large patches of it. Also, it is designed to adhere to permeable surfaces, such as gypsum and the paper skin on drywall. It readily pops off of metal surfaces, such as nail heads and metal corners. Not the best choice for what you are doing. Bondo is formulated to adhere firmly to metal without corroding it.
Re: Bad Ass Safe
Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2020 10:22 pm
by AL usher69
I got the safe for free all I had to do was open it. The guy wanted whatever might be inside. That was the first jewelry safe with pressure bars and eversince i had to have it. Like I said I'm priming in rustoleum and I'll buy high gloss black. Spray paint used for appliances i have high gloss white and it's washable and moisture resistant and dries smooth factory like finish. From what I was told the safe really has no value. Whether its collectible or not the safe has a nostalgic and powerful look. I only skimmed coat the body and the door had even less. When I got the safe the dial would turn a half a inch that was about it. One tooth on the gear was bent up and dirty, grimmy, oil mixture in the lock box. I've since service the lock and the dial spins like new. Y6 4 wheel friction fence.
Re: Bad Ass Safe
Posted: Sat Dec 05, 2020 3:29 pm
by AL usher69
The door has been primed. I'm going to leave the inside primed. The outside will have high gloss black. I have to work on the dial a little.
Re: Bad Ass Safe
Posted: Mon Dec 07, 2020 3:58 am
by AL usher69
00247 wrote:
AL usher69 wrote:I just asked a bridge painter .
Sigh. That isn't the source that I would have gone to for painting advice. It may work initially with a low grade paint like Rustoleum, but I question how it will hold up. Joint compound does not have the proper adhesion properties and is a water based product that promotes rust on metal surfaces. The old safes (late 1800's to early 1900's) had a black filler material to fill defects which was also water based. That is why it is common for the old safes to have surface rust issues causing the filler and paint to fall off. Body filler would be the correct choice.
I started doing body work 45 years ago when I was 17 and did my share of hack jobs as I learned. Everyone has different needs and standards, in my opinion, there is no replacement for doing it right. It is tough for an average guy to go through proper procedures and the expense that comes with it. In order to get shiny black on an old safe to look like this takes hundreds of hours and many hundreds of dollars. Granted it is to the exteme, but I wouldn't put gold leaf (even the artificial stuff) and go through the expense of a pinstriper on any thing less. But again, everyone has different standards.
I see your point and as I paint the door with gloss black I'm seeing all the imperfections. As long as it turns out better then what I started with I'll be ok. I would of taking the safe to someone who paints cars for a living but the dam thing is heavy real heavy. I wish I could of started this hobby when I was younger. Thank you for taking time to comment I really appreciate any and all comments..
Re: Bad Ass Safe
Posted: Mon Dec 07, 2020 4:22 am
by MartinHewitt
Painting is an interesting topic for me too. I have here a GSA field safe, which has been painted very ugly in black and golden, thick paint that is falling of. I would like to get it nicely gray again. I removed some of the paint with liquid paint stripers, but that is a dirty work. I have bought two strip discs for the angle grinder and will try that next. Then comes the adventure of painting. I do not want a glossy finish. I want as much the original appearance as possible. A paint with a "structure". And I do not want to have it falling it of again. As I am here in Germany any product recommendations here would be probably worthless for me.
Re: Bad Ass Safe
Posted: Mon Dec 07, 2020 5:54 am
by AL usher69
MartinHewitt wrote:Painting is an interesting topic for me too. I have here a GSA field safe, which has been painted very ugly in black and golden, thick paint that is falling of. I would like to get it nicely gray again. I removed some of the paint with liquid paint stripers, but that is a dirty work. I have bought two strip discs for the angle grinder and will try that next. Then comes the adventure of painting. I do not want a glossy finish. I want as much the original appearance as possible. A paint with a "structure". And I do not want to have it falling it of again. As I am here in Germany any product recommendations here would be probably worthless for me.
I just looked up gsa field safe thats a nice safe does yours have a s&g group 1 lock
Re: Bad Ass Safe
Posted: Mon Dec 07, 2020 7:11 am
by MartinHewitt
It has an old Mosler MK-302. The correct current lock would be a S&G 2937, which is a beefed up 8550.
PS: The field safe is from 1984.
Re: Bad Ass Safe
Posted: Wed Dec 09, 2020 7:22 pm
by AL usher69
Here are some pictures I still have to use 0000 steelwool. Then put a clear on it. This is my dry run, I'm making sure things go back together. The only problem I have is the one bolt might be screwed up, I'll take it to a machinist and have redo the thread. I'm also having a problem of completely shutting the door and locking it. I just have to scrape the paint were the door closes. Not bad for rustoleum. I'll put some red lines and put Wells Fargo & Co. and something to go with that.
Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2020 5:24 pm